Plenty of prairie

Saskatchewan’s variety defines its landscape

May 02, 2010|D. Grant Black, Globe Correspondent

SASKATOON — Wedged between Alberta and Manitoba, Saskatchewan is a massive prairie province. It is twice the size of Germany yet it has only 1 million inhabitants. It includes a diverse range of terrain and ecosystems, from Great Plains and boreal forest to isolated lakes and rocky Precambrian Shield. The best time to travel to the Prairies’ middle child is in its warmest months, May to September. D. Grant Black, author of “Saskatchewan Book of Musts: 101 Places Every Saskatchewanian Must See,’’ recommends 10 destinations.

Paris of the Prairies

Renowned for its architecture and river valley setting, Saskatoon was first settled in 1882 by Toronto’s teetotaling Temperance Colonisation Society. The vibrant Broadway District (www.onbroadway.ca) features the best day spas, independent shops, and local pottery. Sample Saskatchewan-grown barley beers at The Yard and Flagon Pub(718 Broadway Ave., 306-653-8883). For lunch, head east to Spicy Bite for inexpensive Pakistani/northern Indian cuisine (No. 4-3401 8th St. East,306-373-4747, buffet $14).Weczeria(616 10th St. East, 306-933-9600, www.weczeriarestaurant.ca, entrees $23-$28) offers fine locavore dining. Stay at the riverfront Hotel Bessborough(601 Spadina CrescentEast, 888-890-3222, www.deltahotels.com, doubles $179-$379), a luxury for mer railway hotel. It’s just a short walk to the free Mendel Art Gallery(950 Spadina Crescent East, 306-975-7610, www.mendel.ca).

Grey Owl’s cabin

Prince Albert National Park

, the meeting place between parkland and boreal forests, is where you’ll find Grey Owl’s cabin. Canada’s Thoreau was an environmentalist who posed as an aboriginal. Archibald Belaney (later known as Grey Owl) immigrated from England in 1906. In 1931, Parks Canada wardens relocated Grey Owl, his Mohawk wife, Anahareo, and their two pet beavers to the newly minted park (306-663-4519, parkscanada.ca). Grey Owl’s cabin and grave, both National Heritage Sites, are a few hours north of Saskatoon on the edge of Ajawaan Lake. Each summer, a trickle of North American and European visitors set off in canoes to discover the home of Canada’s first conservationist and camp under the northern lights. (Waskesiu Marina Adventure Centrefor canoe rentals and guided trips, 306-663-1999, www.waskesiumarina.com).

A boreal Sahara

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