Sea life and seabirds describe a little island

Brier Island, at the Atlantic province’s westerly tip, is no more than 1 1/2 miles wide and 4 miles long. As an island destination, it’s got daunting competition. On the opposite end of Nova Scotia lies Cape Breton with its famous Cabot Trail, one of the world’s most scenic drives. Despite Brier Island’s legitimate claim to some of the Canadian Maritimes’ best whale- and bird-watching, the tourists are rarely so numerous as to swell the area’s scant accommodations beyond capacity (the island has one hotel, a hostel, and a handful of bed-and-breakfasts).

Then there is its somewhat challenging accessibility: It is at the least populated end of the province, and it takes two ferry rides (though no more than 15 minutes each) to reach the island. And though tourism contributes to Brier Island’s economy, the fishing boats that line the shore are the main source of income for the approximately 300 inhabitants. Boats far outnumber cars here and the din of seabirds rarely ceases.

As the ferry pulls into Westport, the island’s only village, we are greeted by a boisterous group of seabirds; cormorants, seagulls, and greater shearwaters demand fish. A couple from Toronto, on their third visit to the island, still my hand as I try to take photos. “Don’t worry honey,’’ says the woman, “just walk along any of the hiking trails, you’ll see enough birds to last a lifetime.’’