Blade runner

Sledding in the Alps is an adult thrill

February 14, 2010|Russ Juskalian, Globe Correspondent

BAD TÖLZ, Germany - Where I’m from in New England, the biggest sled run in town is called Suicide Hill. Steep, and a couple of hundred feet long, this locally infamous slope doles out a handful of twisted ankles and bruised egos each year. That’s why I was shocked when Steffi, my Bavarian girlfriend, upon seeing it for the first time, chuckled and said, “Oh, that’s how we used to sled when we were babies.’’

She then described a fantastical vision of the Alps, where serpentine mountain roads are converted to hourlong sledding runs - called “rodelbahn’’ - and mid-mountain pubs supply fresh beer to thirsty Europeans. A rodelbahn, it seemed, was to my neighborhood hill what the Autobahn is to a parking lot. By the time Steffi mentioned the possibility of us spending the holidays with her family in Germany, I was already looking for tickets.

We arrived in Munich to fresh snow, and a few days later set out with some of her friends and relatives for the Blomberg rodelbahn near the town of Bad Tölz. Still jetlagged, I dozed in the backseat of the car until Steffi jabbed me with her elbow.

“See that?’’ she said, as we pulled into a parking lot. Outside was a statue of a colossal sled propped up vertically. Behind it was a chairlift, the bottom of a ski run, and a picturesque mountain covered in snow-laden trees.

Steffi arranged the details. I waited near the chairlift while she got us lift tickets and 3-foot-long wooden runner sleds, descendants of the type Bavarians used in earlier times to move lumber and hay down snowy slopes. These have a thin protective strip of plastic or metal on the runners’ edges.

As an avid skier, the routine felt normal: Drive to a mountain, buy a lift ticket, and ride up in a chairlift in a sort of meditative calm. But as we rose between thick stands of fairy-tale pine trees, the reality of what I was doing snapped into focus: I was on a chairlift with a sled. We were a long way up. Was I really going to slide back down?

“Is this where we get off?’’ I asked Steffi as we approached the lift’s middle station. “Nope,’’ she said with a smile.

So up we went, to the top of the mountain, where the sunlit trees glowed white and yellow against a blue sky. A fresh powder sparkled like broken glass, and squeaked underfoot. In the distance, I could see a mostly flat landscape dotted with farms.

I watched a few people glide down the 15-foot-wide path before I sat on my sled and pushed off. Everything was fine as I zoomed through the first steep section of the path. Then it turned left, and in spite of everything I tried, I continued going straight - right into a snowbank. Steffi’s brother was waiting nearby with advice.

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