Pretty in white

Camden wears its winters well, reading, eating, sleeping, sporting, museumgoing and going shopping

January 31, 2010|Hilary Nangle, Globe Correspondent

CAMDEN - The usual image of this town is cheek-by-jowl sailboats and motor yachts crowding its snug harbor where Maine’s spruce-clad mountains meet island-salted Penobscot Bay. It’s an image captured in native daughter Edna St. Vincent Millay’s poem “Renascence’’: “All I could see from where I stood, / Was three long mountains and a wood; / I turned and looked the other way, / And saw three islands in a bay.’’

Snow isn’t usually part of such dreamy thoughts, but blanketed in white, Camden is still a looker. Ski and snowshoe trails lace the hills, boats slumber in the harbor, and unusual shops and galleries beckon. In winter, Camden is a place to wind down, dine well, and savor the season.

To ramp up the action, plan a visit coinciding with one of Camden’s winter wingdings. Winterfest, a daylong community-oriented event with ice sculptures, skiing, crafts, carriage rides, and music, marks its ninth year next January. The US National Toboggan Championships, Feb. 5-7, attracts hundreds of competitors and more than a thousand spectators. Far more serious is the Camden Conference (877-214-8579, www.camdenconference.org), Feb. 19-21, which this year focuses on Afghanistan, Pakistan, and India.

Even though it’s winter, don’t show up without a room reservation. Camden has perhaps Maine’s best concentration of inns with fine dining, so culinary travelers will be especially rewarded. Both the elegant Hartstone Inn (800-788-4823, www.hartstoneinn.com, $105-$185, including full breakfast and afternoon hors d’oeuvres) and the European-chic Camden Harbour Inn (800-236-4266, www.camdenharbourinn.com, $175-$375, including choice-of-menu champagne breakfast and 24-hour snacks; reopens Feb. 10 after a winter siesta) are in town. The Hartstone also offers cooking classes on some weekends. In Lincolnville, about 5 miles from downtown Camden, the Youngtown Inn (800-291-8438, www.youngtowninn.com, $159 with full breakfast) delivers a taste of France; rates including dinner are available.

If food isn’t your focus, the downtown Camden Riverhouse Hotel (207-236-0500, www.camdenmaine.com, $109-$149, including expanded continental breakfast) has an indoor pool and a hot tub. Children under 16 sharing a parent’s room are free, and pets are $15, with advance reservation. For a classic B&B experience, look no further than the Camden Maine Stay, (207-236-9636, www.camdenmainestay.com, $115-$170, including full breakfast and afternoon sweets). Prefer a cabin in the woods combined with stellar fitness facilities? Point Lookout Resort (800-515-3611, www.visitpointlookout.com, $129-$189), a former executive retreat, has one- to three-bedroom cabins with kitchenettes or kitchens.

Friday

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