Peacefully Adrift as the Mississippi River Just Rolls Along

January 10, 2010|Paul Schneider

THE same drifting log had caught up with our kayaks again. It was sometime during our third day on the Mississippi River, or was it the fourth day, or the second or fifth? I’d lost myself again in a silent reverie, allowing my kayak to spin lazily along the great river’s western shoreline, like a bright yellow leaf with some kind of exotic beetle in a life vest perched in the middle of it.

The current turned the bow first toward the unbroken line of trees and the muddy banks covered with mysterious animal tracks. Then to the downriver view, with my son’s kayak similarly gyrating a hundred yards ahead, beneath the limestone bluffs of the Missouri shore. Then across the nearly mile-wide glassy black river to the line of hazy sky and thin band of flat green on the far side that looked more like an Amazon shore than Illinois. Countless swallows dipped and dived. How much time had passed on this particular spiral drift? A half-hour? A million years? Who knew? Who cared? “Peace, like a river,” goes the old hymn.

The Mississippi is full of driftwood, large and small, but I thought I recognized the log passing by in the current of the main channel, 75 yards away, because its stumpy branch sticking up aft and a smaller one forward had reminded me of the George Caleb Bingham painting of a fur trader and his cat in a flatboat. Now it had somehow found a sweet line of lesser resistance and was cruising in mid-river right past me, as if it were late for a board meeting down in Memphis or Baton Rouge.

I dug in with my paddle. “Come on,” I said as I passed both son and log, “let’s put some muscle into it for a while.” With surprisingly little effort, barely more than letting the weight of the paddle fall into the water on either side, a sea kayak can be kept fairly ripping along in the Mississippi current at a very satisfying seven miles an hour. In no time the fur trading log was far behind us and we were speeding on toward ... toward ... toward ...

The truth is, my 15-year-old son and I didn’t have specific destinations in mind on this kayaking trip in June. We hadn’t come to the Mississippi to prove or conquer anything. We just came to see what the most storied river in America had to offer a couple of supplicants with plastic boats and a week and a half with which to play.

We put in a few miles south of St. Louis but we didn’t know precisely how far we were going to go down the Father of Waters. We didn’t know whether we were going to camp every night on islands and sandbars, or stay in the small towns along the way. We didn’t know whether we were going to paddle hard to put miles under the hull or drift along like Huck (him?) and Jim (me?). It didn’t matter. The point was to experience the Mississippi from water level.

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