Taking a neighborly approach

December 16, 2009|Devra First, Globe Staff

Once business travelers roamed the earth. They were an omnivorous species, and quite thirsty as well. Hotels were their habitat, and they ate and drank in proximity to where they slept. Large packs roved from conference to conference, meeting to meeting, a common sight. No more. These creatures have gone into hiding, scared off by a changing economic climate. One day they may roam the earth again.

Until then, a smart hotel restaurant might contemplate an image shift in the interest of biodiversity. Say, from the cool and aloof-sounding Azure to the more welcoming City Table, with the tagline “a neighborhood eatery.’’ That’s what the Lenox Hotel did in October, a change that makes sense in all ways; the restaurant is now a matching set with the Lenox’s City Bar. City Table is being spun as relaxed and easygoing, with food that’s perfect for sharing. The message is clear: This is so not a hotel restaurant. The Lenox isn’t even mentioned on City Table’s current website.

The makeover is mostly skin deep, if that. The menu structure is similar to Azure’s, featuring some of the same dishes. Chef Dennis Wilson remains. The room looks familiar, still outfitted with a blue wall at the back and light fixtures sporting clusters of amber glass spheres. If that’s all it takes to draw a new audience, this is just exactly as deep as it needs to be.

But unlike peripatetic hotel guests, neighborhood residents don’t go away. They’re a finite resource, not a renewable one. Restaurants have to work a little harder to get them to return. So when it comes to City Table’s food, change could go a little deeper.

There is some satisfying finger food here - roll-your-own steak tacos, for example. The plate offers tortillas, slices of hanger steak, fresh salsa, and guacamole with good avocado and cilantro flavor. It is indeed perfect for sharing, just the right thing to split with a friend over a beer after work.

Fondue always feels like a party, and at City Table it comes in a vintage-looking pot with forks all around. Unfortunately, the sauce is watery, only weakly flavored with cheddar. (The macaroni and cheese available here as a side suffers from the same problem.) For dipping, you get croutons, potatoes, apples, and pork belly. The potatoes are tender, great vehicles for a (more assertive, please) cheese sauce. The apples are beginning to brown but are still crunchy. Bread would be better than the overly crisp croutons, but they’re not bad. The pork belly, unfortunately, is cooked to toughness and not hot. But still, it’s fondue. Always a party.