Broccoli trees and bromeliads, 180 feet over the rain forest

December 06, 2009|Claudia R. Capos, Globe Correspondent

GUAPILES, Costa Rica - The first drops of rain began to fall as we stepped aboard the green open-air gondola that would whisk us through the rain forest treetops.

Soon the droplets ricocheted off outstretched leaves and delicate flowers high above the jungle floor. The moist air created a fresh, vibrant feeling that energized our senses and brought a chorus of shrill chirps from birds hidden in the canopy.

We were venturing into a world far removed from Cartagena, Colombia; Grand Cayman Island’s Seven Mile Beach; and other ports of call on our 11-day Caribbean cruise. Costa Rica was wet and wild.

“Welcome to the rain forest,’’ said Jaeson Clarke, our local guide. “Pura vida!’’ The phrase, meaning “pure life,’’ is popular among residents of this tropical paradise.

For years, the rain forest’s high canopy was the privileged domain of scientists who studied its extraordinary fauna and flora. This treetop wonderland was opened to public viewing 15 years ago through the efforts of Joaquin von der Goltz, a Boston-based international entrepreneur and lifelong nature lover. Von der Goltz, the founding partner of Boston Capital Ventures, spearheaded the financing for construction of the first-ever Rain Forest Aerial Tram, which began operation in 1994.

Today, the 1 1/2-mile-long elevated tram system carries passengers through primary rain forest in a 1,200-acre private nature reserve. Bilingual naturalists provide commentary during the 80-minute ride. The tram property, bordering Braulio Carrillo National Park, includes a lodge, nature trails, and a visitors center with a restaurant and souvenir shop.

Our 60-mile bus ride from Puerto Limon to the tram took us past banana and pineapple plantations and pastel-colored island houses. At the tram parking lot, we boarded a shuttle to the visitors center, where a short video explained the rich biodiversity of the Neotropics. Scientists estimate that this massive ecozone, encompassing the rain forests from southern Mexico to southern Brazil (and also including the Caribbean and southern Florida), is home to an estimated 1.5 million species of plants and animals. However, the rain forests are threatened by encroaching agricultural development and logging.

During a short nature walk, Clarke introduced us to fascinating foliage, such as baby tears, cow’s tongue, monkey ladder, monkey tail, and sandpaper leaf. Along the trail, we spotted a flamboyant toucan and carefully avoided a small, venomous, orange eyelash pit viper on a moss-covered tree.

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