Comfort food in a comfy setting

December 06, 2009

Abington Ale House
1235 Bedford St., Abington
Monday to Wednesday, 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Thursday to Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to midnight; Sunday noon to 11 p.m.
Wheelchair accessible
781-871-6811; www.abingtonalehouse.com

Remember when this restaurant was called Teel’s Cabin? I sure do.

Teel’s was a landmark on Route 18, famous for its family-friendly atmosphere, warm cornbread, and all-you-can-eat specials. My mother used to take me there when I was a kid. She would look on proudly as my brother and I downed several plates of food in one sitting. With appetites like ours, I wondered how the place managed to stay in business.

That was over 20 years ago. Teel’s Cabin is no more, but the place is still a restaurant, with the same owners. After a few different incarnations over the years, the Barrett family renovated the space in 1996 and reopened it as the Abington Ale House.

Just like Teel’s Cabin, the Ale House is known for its generous portions, affordable prices, and friendly service. It has also become famous for its free birthday meals - if you eat there on your birthday, they will give you a complimentary entree (just make sure to bring proof.)

The place still has a homey, country-kitchen feel. Strings of Christmas lights adorn the front of the red Colonial-style building on Route 18, and little lights are strung along the shrubbery and the country wagon on the front lawn. Six enormous wooden statues hold court in front of the restaurant. To the right of the entrance are three giant wood-carved bears, and to the left, three large monkeys striking the familiar “see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil’’ pose.

Inside, the atmosphere is casual and laid-back. Plaid carpeting covers the floor, and knotty pine wood paneling defines the walls. The dining room is brightly lit, with plenty of roomy booths that can seat a family of five or six comfortably. There’s a function room, as well as a lounge area that is basically a standard sports bar, offering Keno and live entertainment after 9:30 p.m.

To say the decor is eclectic would be an understatement. Every inch of space along the wood-paneled walls is filled with weird knickknacks.

Look around, and you’ll see a shiny ceramic bust of the Scarecrow from the Wizard of Oz. That’s displayed on a clear glass shelf, alongside the Lion and Tin Man. On another wall, you’ll find miniature pandas, a wooden antique radio, Mark Twain, and Rocky Marciano memorabilia. There are framed portraits of clowns, as well as figurines of cats, jazz musicians, firemen, golfers, and Mickey Mouse. There’s even a honest-to-goodness, real-life stuffed Alaskan wolf encased in glass in the middle of the restaurant. It sits there silently, with its head thrown back and mouth open, forever caught in mid-howl.

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