Stay
Several of those early ship captains’ homes have been turned into bed-and-breakfasts. One of the loveliest is The Melville House (100 Madison St., 508-990-1566, www.melvillehouse.net, doubles $130-$175), an 1855 Italian Empire house once owned by author Herman Melville’s sister, Katherine. It stands on a historic street lined with 19th-century federal and Victorian mansions. Three miles from the historic district, Days Inn (500 Hathaway Road, 508-997-1231, www.daysinn.com, doubles $69-$149) has a heated indoor pool. The Lafrance Hospitality Co. has begun construction on a five-story, 106-room hotel on the waterfront, which is due to open next summer.
Dine
Got fish? For the most part, New Bedford’s restaurants take advantage of the city’s maritime bounty and Portuguese heritage. Davy’s Locker (1480 East Rodney French Blvd., 508-992-7359, www.davyslockerrestaurant.com, $5-$23) is a rustic building with a fantastic ocean view and a tiki hut right on the water. While the menu emphasizes fish, you can get a hamburger for $5 - with french fries and cole slaw, no less. In the heart of the historic district, Freestone’s City Grill (41 William St., 508-993-7477, www.freestones.com, $7.50-$20) occupies the handsome 1877 Citizen’s National Bank building. Try the homemade fish chowder, the signature Oriental turkey salad, or honey-baked New Bedford scallops. Kids eat free on Wednesdays after 5 p.m. We didn’t order the paella at Antonio’s (267 Coggeshall St. 508-990-3636, $8-$25), but nearly everyone around us did, prompting a “note to self’’ for our next visit. We opted for the artery-busting steak Antonio’s style, a 16-ounce grilled sirloin topped with ham and fried eggs, and, like everyone else, walked out with a doggie bag. Portuguese bakeries crowd the area north of downtown along Acushnet Avenue. At Lydia’s Bakery (1656 Acushnet Ave., 508-992-1711) you can grab a table to enjoy linguica calzone or nata, pastry cups filled with custard, almond, or coconut.
During the day
