Making merry

Customs born centuries ago endure and thrive in Christmas markets, celebrations, and baubles

November 29, 2009|Peter Mandel, Globe Correspondent
(Page 3 of 3)

One of many small companies in the town, Farbglashütte Lauscha has been in business since 1853, and lets visitors take molten glass, fresh from the fire, and try blowing their own glass balls. The open doors of the furnaces reddened workers’ caps and faces. One by one, they approached the 2,552-degree Fahrenheit stoves, dipped steel tongs into liquid glass, and poured it (carefully) into a mold that, the day I was there, would make a sculpted angel.

No one wore gloves. Tinsel-like filaments of glass stretched and spilled from their tongs, cooling, then curling in beautiful spools on the concrete floor.

Angels, I realized, are born, not of clouds, but of fire.

A few days later, in Nuremberg, I talked to a real angel. Well, sort of. Rebekka Volland, 18, was the official 2008 angel of the city’s Christmas market, one of the most visited in Germany.

Chosen by a jury of local leaders, Volland looked sad that her reign was nearly over. “I am like an ambassador,’’ she said. “I open the market to the public. Children believe I am real. And some people think I can - what is your word? - grant their wishes.’’

Is that true? I asked. “I do not think so,’’ she replied.

I didn’t mind. I could do without wishes. It was only November and I already had what I wanted this year: a slice of the first fruit-filled stollen of the season; a tiny, whittled tree; and a candle holder made of sea-green glass.

This year I have an inside track on Christmas. When someone strikes up “Silent Night’’ or “O Tannenbaum,’’ I will sing along. But I will think of squares full of carolers and wooden stalls. I’ll think of mountains and mist-dipped towns and the place where my favorite season is made.

Peter Mandel can be reached at pbmandel@cox.net.

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