Dressed-up mashed potatoes

Can you make the ultimate comfort food even better? You can.

November 22, 2009|Adam Ried

Some Thanksgiving side dishes come and go, but not the mashed potatoes. It just isn’t a holiday without them (my friend Catrine can attest to the mayhem that ensued the year she substituted a potato gratin). Whether they’re fluffy or creamy, rich or light, or chunky or silky doesn’t matter as long as they’re present and accounted for.

Because I go for a fluffy, silky texture, I think russets are the right potato for the job. Steaming rather than boiling the potatoes and rinsing them before and during cooking -- a technique I learned from Cook’s Illustrated -- washes away some of the starch, helping to lighten the texture. Jazzing up the mash is fun for a celebratory meal, as long as the flavors complement the earthy potatoes. In these versions, artichokes and Parmesan add nutty notes, while caramelized onions and roasted parsnips bring subtle sweetness.

Mashed Potatoes With Artichokes and Parmesan

Serves 6

7 tablespoons unsalted butter, 5 tablespoons of it melted

2 9-ounce packages frozen artichoke hearts, cooked, drained, and finely chopped

Salt and pepper

1½ teaspoons minced fresh thyme or oregano

2 cloves garlic, minced

2½ pounds russet potatoes (5 to 7 medium-large), peeled, cut into 1-inch chunks, and rinsed in 2 changes of water

1 cup whole milk or half-and-half, warmed, or more, as desired

¼ cup Parmesan cheese

In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat the 2 tablespoons of unmelted butter. When it stops foaming, add the chopped artichokes, a pinch of salt, and pepper to taste, and cook, stirring frequently, until the artichokes look dry and a shade darker, about 7 minutes. Stir in the thyme or oregano and garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Cover the pan and set aside off heat.

Meanwhile, place the potatoes in a steaming basket that fits inside a large pot. Fill the pot with enough water to reach the bottom of the basket, and set it over high heat. Once the water boils, steam the potatoes, covered, over medium-high heat until tender, about 20 minutes (midway through cooking, remove the basket and rinse the potatoes under cool running water for about 1 minute). Remove the basket and discard the water.

Force the potatoes through a ricer into the pot. Add the 5 tablespoons of melted butter and gently fold. Add ½ cup of the warm milk or half-and-half and fold. Add another ½ cup of milk or half-and-half, 1 teaspoon salt, pepper to taste, the artichokes, and the Parmesan, and fold. Taste the potatoes and adjust with salt and pepper and warm milk or half-and-half, if desired, and serve at once.

Mashed Potatoes With Caramelized Onions, Cognac, and Nutmeg

Serves 6

1 tablespoon canola oil

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, 5 tablespoons of it melted

2 pounds onions (about 4 medium-large), thinly sliced

Salt and pepper

½ cup cognac or brandy