Wonders on the waterfront in Newport, R. I.

November 18, 2009|Casey Ross, Globe Staff

When Newport’s waterfront turns cold and blustery, this town of mansions and manicured lawns takes on a slightly darker hue, as if it might be a place where lobstermen predominate over the usual crowd of bon vivants. In truth, the city is a melting pot of people and styles, a tradition that endures from its roots as a beacon for settlers tired of Boston’s overbearing political and religious conventions. Take a mansion tour along Bellevue Avenue, stroll and dine on the waterfront, and be sure to stop in the pubs that line upper Thames Street.

Stay

The Hyatt Regency (1 Goat Island, 401-851-1234, www.newport.hyatt.com) is minutes from downtown and overlooks the waterfront. It recently underwent a $34 million renovation and offers a full-service spa and outdoor saltwater pool. Sailing, golfing, shopping, and dining are all within close reach. The hotel offers two restaurants - one for seasonal outdoor dining - along with a lounge and a coffee bar. Rates start at $189 weekdays and $219 on weekends. The Mill Street Inn (75 Mill St., 800-392-1316, www.millstreetinn.com) is located on Historic Hill just blocks from the waterfront. The boutique-style hotel is carved out of a 19th-century mill and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. For a larger group, it offers two-story townhouse suites with private outdoor space. Rates are $125-$175 with continental breakfast.

Dine

The gravitational pull for local cuisine is to the waterfront, but on a rainy autumn night we were pleased to happen upon Ristorante Lucia (186-190 Thames St., 401-846-4477, northern Italian, lunch and dinner $14.95-$19.95) in the center of the shopping district. It was opened in 1993, so don’t let the 1970s decor fool you. In fact, ignore the decor altogether and focus on the rich, authentic Italian offerings. Try pollo al forno for $16.95, a chicken and eggplant dish with spicy marinara. Not to be overlooked is the bruschetta ($7.95-$8.95), with tomatoes, olive tapenade, garlic, mozzarella, Gorgonzola, and mushrooms.

Just down the street is Buskers (178 Thames St., 401-846-5856, lunch and dinner, $7.99-$19.99). This Irish pub offers a massive menu ranging from burgers to lobster ravioli. It’s a bit counterintuitive for an Irish place, but try the Portuguese clams, served in a massive steaming bowl with chorizo. The menu includes the classics: shepherd’s pie, bangers and mash, Irish stew, and mixed grill.

During the day

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