Bites

November 11, 2009

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ABBY PARK 550 Adams St., Milton. 617-696-8700. 88 WHARF 88 Wharf St., Milton. 857-598-4826. Where once there was naught but pizza and middling Chinese food, where once the thirsty roamed far and wide seeking drink, lo, now there are restaurants. In Milton. With liquor licenses. There’s room for improvement in the New American fare at Abby Park and 88 Wharf, but sometimes showing up is 90 percent of the battle. Both places bring something new and welcome to Milton.

BON SAVOR 605 Centre St., Jamaica Plain. 617-971-0000. Hail, Boston, city of neighborhoods, each with its own distinctive flavors. In J.P., for instance, there’s Bon Savor. The menu splits its time between France and South America, and new chef Marco Suarez (Eastern Standard) turns in relaxed, happy dishes such as steak frites with chimichurri and moqueca de peixe, the Brazilian seafood stew. Bon Savor is not the kind of restaurant you go out of your way for - it’s the kind you eat at, regularly and gladly, in your own neck of the woods.

CORIANDER BISTRO 5 Post Office Square, Sharon. 781-784-2300. Coriander’s menu ranges far and wide: through India, from north to south to west, to the native Nepal of the owners, from street snacks to Anglo-inflected specialties, homey dal to complex curries. There are nearly 100 main dishes to sample, and almost 20 kinds of bread alone. The variety is not the only reason you could eat here often. Chef Dammar Thapa went to culinary school in India, and his resume includes stints at a five-star hotel in Kathmandu and on cruise ships. His food is deftly spiced and prepared with an unusually fine touch.

THE STORK CLUB 604 Columbus Ave., Boston. 617-391-0256. It was a sad day when Bob’s Southern Bistro closed: the end of a long run, the end of live jazz and soul food, the end of a place where people from all walks of life felt welcome. Now the Stork Club, opened in August in the same space, is bringing life back to Bob’s corner. It’s got live jazz and soul food, though the former’s more successful than the latter. It’s also got basics like burgers and chocolate mousse, which it executes quite well. The main draw is the music, but you won’t be sorry if you stay to eat.

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