Revitalized Bradenton brims with artistic flair

November 01, 2009|Beth D’Addono, Globe Correspondent

BRADENTON, Fla. - Turn onto 12th Street West, and it’s clear that this isn’t your average neighborhood. Instead of the usual bungalows, there is a riot of lime green picket fencing, a mural that pairs Frida Kahlo with an emaciated Christ figure, and a giant cow statue painted blue. And that’s just within two blocks.

Welcome to Village of the Arts, a funky collection of more than 35 galleries, studios, cafes, and shops stretching between 9th Street and 16th Street West, and 9th and 14th Street West in what was once a rough section just south of downtown Bradenton, 50 miles south of Tampa on Florida’s Gulf Coast. Formerly a place known for crack houses and prostitutes, Village of the Arts started as a grass-roots attempt to reclaim the neighborhood by a few brave artists in search of cheap real estate and a community. A decade later, what began as a social experiment has become a reason for locals and visitors to spend time away from Bradenton’s sandy beaches.

Bonni Brown was one of the first to stake a claim. The former New York clinical social worker opened a bakery cafe in September 1999. “We bought this place from a man arrested for shooting at crackheads. Got a great deal.’’ Today, the 100-year-old building houses Bonni Bakes, a friendly spot to have fresh mango lassi, a curried chicken salad sandwich, and a slice of red velvet cake. “We still get locals who’ve lived here all their lives and say, ‘When did all this happen?’ We’ve finally got some signs up, which will help a lot.’’

Brenda Smoak is the newest kid on the block. She opened Alchemy, a fair trade consignment shop representing 145 artists, in early October, leaving her gallery in Silver Springs, Md., behind. “I moved here because of this place - it felt like a community,’’ Smoak said.

Divine Excess Folk Art is definitely one of 12th Street’s catchiest facades. Painted lime and scarlet, the outside of the gallery is marked by a towering live oak that doubles as a repository of Mexican milagros and Mardi Gras beads. Inside, Zoe Von Averkamp showcases top Florida folk and outsider artists, including Missionary Mary Proctor, whose work hangs at the American Visionary Arts Museum in Baltimore. “I love folk art because it’s raw, real, and from the soul,’’ said Von Averkamp, an artist who creates moody shrines and altars from found objects. “I’m here to tell you that you’re never too old or too late to realize your dream.’’