Green Mountain getaway

Culture, history blend well in Manchester, Vt.

October 28, 2009|Ron Driscoll, Globe Staff

MANCHESTER, Vt. - It seems a mix of Robert Frost and J.R.R. Tolkien, this southwest corner of the Green Mountain State with its unofficial designation as “The Shires of Vermont.’’ As it turns out, there is more than literary background to the moniker. A “shire town’’ in the 18th century was the county seat, and in Bennington County, the duties are still split between the “north shire’’ of Manchester and the “south shire’’ of Bennington. Look for the stately county courthouse in Manchester Village, across the road from the Equinox Resort, which was established in 1769.

Stay

The Equinox (3567 Main St., Route 7A, 800-362-4747, www.equinoxresort.com) is at the heart of Manchester Village, a historic district that, though part of the town, also has its own board of trustees. Fresh off a $20 million renovation and with an eclectic array of activities including archery, falconry, golf, spa, and an off-road driving school, low-season rates start at $149 weekdays, $199 weekends, and a current special adds a $50 designer outlet store credit to that rate (see below). The Inn at Manchester, just down the street (3967 Main St., 800-273-1793, www.innatmanchester.com), dates from the 1880s and offers 18 rooms from $155-$295, with breakfast.

Dine

Shopping lures folks from Boston (175 miles), New York City (215 miles), and all points between, so we were pleased to find Ponce Gourmet (468 Depot St., 802-362-4433, sandwiches and salads $6.95-$11.95) in the heart of the shopping outlets. Amber Hamilton and Ron Rodriguez opened their “West Coast-style’’ bistro-bakery in mid-2008 and offer fresh-made soups, pastries, breads, and meals. One recent morning they had caramel cream mascarpone crepes with cinnamon and maple syrup, with fresh fruit, for $6.95. Maple syrup rules in Vermont, no matter the other influences.

Zoey’s Double Hex Restaurant (Routes 11 and 30, 802-362-4600, www.zoeys.com, lunch and dinner $7-$18.95) offers hearty fare on the outskirts of town, including what Vermont Magazine has called the state’s best burger, served on bread baked nearby at Zoey’s Deli and Bakery. By the way, “double hex’’ is a good thing - it means double welcome in Pennsylvania Dutch.

During the day

It’s easy to while away the better part of a day at Northshire Bookstore (4869 Main St., 802-362-2200, www.northshire.com), an independent seller established in 1976. It moved to a former inn at the crossroads of Manchester Center in 1985, and also sells music, cards, and various treats at the Spiral Press Café. There are hundreds of staff book recommendations on cards affixed to the shelves. Upcoming author events include Jan Brett (Nov. 6), Ken Burns (Nov. 30), and Stephen King (Dec. 2).