Serves 4
The weather is cooler and that’s the end of garden tomatoes - at least for the ripe ones. It’s back to the market, back to cans. Canned tomatoes are good for many things, including sauces, braises, and soups. But there’s something about fresh tomatoes (even those that are shipped from far, far away) that enhance cooking. Fresh tomatoes brighten a dish in a way that no tinned tomato can. In the off-season, however, stick with cherry tomatoes. They’re small and shiny red, and more likely to be at least almost ripe. Cook the little cherry or grape shapes in a skillet of hot oil to concentrate their sweetness and break down their skins. For a fall pasta dish that feels very sunny, add a spoonful of honey and crushed red pepper to the pan. Serve them on top of rigatoni with peppery raw arugula (best in fall), fresh ricotta, and pieces of crispy bread browned in hot oil. All of these things taste good on their own, and even better when combined one forkful at a time.