Bon Savor charms

Jamaica Plain spot splits time between France, South America

October 28, 2009|Dining out, Devra First, Globe Staff

Hail, Boston, our city of neighborhoods. From the east, the aroma of tortillas on the griddle, char-bottomed pizza pies, and airplane fumes mingled with paper-cup coffee. By the water, lobster wholesalers, urban fish shacks, and metal shipping containers in Cezanne hues, dispersing into North End brick, garlic sizzling in olive oil, and sauces cooked for hours. Live shrimp and pea shoots and pork potstickers in Chinatown, ginger and scallions and white rice plain and perfect. On to lobster Savannah. Oysters and chowder. Fenway franks. The South End, roast chicken, sticky buns, steak frites, rinse, repeat. And into the boroughs: Irish bars, burritos, Burmese soups, soul food, sushi seven ways (or more). For every quirky little neighborhood, dozens of quirky little restaurants and dishes, and the people who love them. It is as good a reason as any to live here. Better than most.

Bon Savor is a fine reminder of this, in and of Jamaica Plain, and as much about charm and personality as food. It is the brick-and-mortar progeny of Oleg Konovalov and Ibonne Zabala, a Russian and a Colombian (who are also parents of a 10-month-old). They opened the place four years ago and in August brought in a new chef, Marco Suarez, who was previously at the vast Eastern Standard. He left it behind for Lilliput. Bon Savor is the size of a generous closet, with tile floors and brick walls. Despite the difference in their sizes, the two establishments share a characteristic: conviviality.

When you walk through the door at Bon Savor, there is happy energy and candlelight. Servers are solicitous and kind. Tables are full midweek, and the people at them don’t have far to travel afterward. This is the release at the end of the day, the last stop before bed and nothing that needs to be done. Suarez’s food works well for that mood. There’s a bit of richness, balanced by citrus and herbs and light, flavor ful salads. Bon Savor also offers a raw bar, with $1 oysters on Tuesdays.

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