Styles all their own

Apfel’s fashions, Belin’s photos spotlight creativity, individuality

October 24, 2009|Mark Feeney, Globe Staff
(Page 3 of 3)

Style, artifice, and their ungainly stepchild, affectation, have long drawn Belin. She’s done photographic studies of Michael Jackson impersonators, showgirls, bodybuilders, and lapdogs. Here she photographs mannequins that look almost human, a human who looks almost like a mannequin (she’s a cabaret performer who’s identically posed in three shots, each time wearing a different costume), gargantuan still lifes, and a pair of chip bags.

These are items whose artifice we tend to ignore. Belin uses scale to reorient them. Her pictures raise questions about our idea of beauty (those chip bags are surprisingly attractive). They also confront the nature of portraiture. Is it meant to present or reveal? Well, both, of course, but by emphasizing presentation at the expense of revelation she makes us see the portrait afresh.

The effect of Belin’s work is a bit creepy - which is both intentional and not. The creepiness is a function of novelty and the unnervingness that can come with it. (Though there’s novelty, and then there’s novelty: The Surrealists were using dolls to question the representation of reality 80 years ago.) But there’s also the creepiness of such relentless control. Even the most exacting photographer can’t help but leave some room for chance in his or her work. The great thing about a mannequin, from Belin’s point of view, is that it takes the life out of lifelike. It doesn’t matter to her that any good portrait can’t help but be a collaboration between photographer and sitter.

Fashionistas (such a silly term) will demur, but there really is something frivolous, even grotesque, about the Apfel show. She can be really way out there, sometimes. But it’s a frivolity and grotesqueness that happen to be alive with personality and fizz, that display an almost-promiscuous love of variety and appearance for appearance’s sake (which is not a bad working definition of art). The Belin show rejects, or at least ignores, all such concerns. It plucks every one of those 3 million feathers so as to wrap them up into a neat, not-so-little package.

Mark Feeney can be reached at mfeeney@globe.com.

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