Something fishy’s always going on

Atlantic Fish In April, Danny Levesque replaced executive chef Tim Partridge, who during his two-year tenure at this stately, white-tablecloth fish house, transformed the menu from a baked potato and scrod sort of place to an exciting dining destination. “Ninety percent of the menu is fish,’’ says Levesque. “We have filet and sirloin on the menu, but people often accompany it with a lobster tail’’ (as actor Tom Cruise did earlier this fall).

Beyond the full bar and 200-bottle wine list, you’ll find a bountiful raw bar, classic appetizers like clams casino (crumbs and butter), and the standout sea bass chowder, a voluptuous blend of bacon, cream, corn, sea bass, and roasted poblano peppers. The day’s catch features almost a dozen simply prepared options, while the main menu boasts myriad seafood specialties, like swordfish piccata, and six lobster preparations, including the very New England steamed lobster with potatoes and corn on the cob. One of the more inventive dishes (available as an appetizer or entree) is tuna Bolognese, where ground tuna and bluefish substitute for meat in this famous Italian ragu. 761 Boylston St., 617-267-4000,www.atlanticfishco.com

B&G Oysters Each day this azure-colored ode to oysters in the South End features 12 varieties of bivalves (six from each coast), all delivered fresh that morning. Clams and easily 100 lobsters also arrive daily to become the restaurant’s signature mayo-dressed lobster roll, golden fried clams, and lobster BLT.

“We order everything fresh daily because the restaurant and kitchen are so small,’’ says sous chef Stephen Oxaal, referring to the 40-seat interior, which includes chairs at the white marble bar overlooking the open kitchen. “It’s a lively restaurant with tons of energy. You can see the kitchen staff shucking oysters, making salads, and you really get into the feel of it.’’

The menu offers various raw bar items, some salads, the aforementioned signature classics, and approximately five seafood entrees, like mussels with saffron and fennel. In addition to lunch and take-out service, you’ll find no liquor but lots of fish-friendly beer and wine. 550 Tremont St., 617-423-0550, www.bandgoysters.com