Stork Club mixes music and meals

October 07, 2009|Devra First, Globe Staff

It was a sad day when Bob’s Southern Bistro shut down two years ago: the end of a long run, the end of “glorifried’’ chicken, the end of listening to live jazz while eating soul food. Bob’s (perhaps better known by a former name, Bob the Chef’s) meant something. In the South End, on the Roxbury side of Mass. Ave., and in the heart of Northeastern nesting grounds, it was a place where people from all walks of life came together. It felt real. When a new owner appeared on the scene wanting to turn it into an upscale lounge for young professionals called Night Town, it seemed an era had ended.

Night Town was not to be. Instead, the space became upscale French bistro Circle, and within two months it was out of business. The location that Bob’s made a nexus now seemed a liability: on the border of everything, and without a concept strong enough or well-priced enough to draw people to the outskirts of its orbit.

Now the Stork Club is trying to bring the corner of Columbus and Northampton back to life. Opened in August, in the hands of new co-owner Ziad Chamoun (Barking Crab) and chef Jeff Poliseno (Vox Populi), it grafts its two predecessors into one nightspot. It’s kitted out with the plush carmine banquettes and groovy space-age bar installed for Circle. It features the live music that was a focal point for Bob’s, with jazz and blues every night. And it feeds its patrons ribs, catfish sliders, and fried chicken, but also arugula salads with roasted figs, soba noodles, and seared tuna.

With performers ranging from Berklee students to seasoned combos, the Stork Club has got the jazz part down. The soul, however, could use some work. A gumbo special with andouille sausage and crawfish one night features a base of gummy rice, but the flavor is spot on: spicy and rich. Ribs are tough and need a more lavish slather of barbecue sauce. Blackened catfish sliders could use more spice. Without much of a sear on the fish, the sliders lack textural interest; frying might work better here - though the fried chicken plate is more horrifried than glorifried. It seems sacrilegious, in the space that was Bob’s, to serve chicken so dry it could choke you, its crust neither crispy nor greasy. It comes with greens that are nice and tender. Even if it were great fried chicken, the plate is $16 and offers just one small piece: cheap cheep.