Picture-perfect

Stopping at indigenous preserves, expat gardens, fortresses, and for photo critiques

September 27, 2009|Kari Bodnarchuk, Globe Correspondent
(Page 4 of 4)

Our ship set off at twilight, passing under the Bridge of the Americas and following behind the White Dolphin, a refrigerated cargo vessel with which we would make the entire 50-mile transit. We watched in awe as millions of gallons of water flooded or drained from each lock within minutes and “mules’’ (small tug locomotives that ran on tracks alongside each lock) carefully guided our two ships as we navigated the narrow passage.

Many of us stayed up until 3 a.m. to experience the entire transit. Our exploration leaders narrated the trip, offering information on the history of the canal and an explanation of its inner workings, while we watched our ships rise and fall like toys in a big bathtub.

Choppy seas kept us from visiting the San Blas Islands, home to the Kuna Indians, once we reached the Caribbean coast. Instead, we spent our final day exploring Portobelo, a historic fortress town visited by Christopher Columbus in 1502 and declared a World Heritage Site in 1980. It was hard to believe this sleepy enclave was once the main port for plundered gold and pirate spoils traveling from South America to Europe. For us, Portobelo’s true value lay in its easy, carefree pace and idyllic setting, nestled between mangroves and tropical coves where we snorkeled around the colorful reefs.

Kari Bodnarchuk can be reached at travelwriter@karib.us.

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