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Austin, Texas: Deep in the heart of this laid-back college town is a love of the offbeat -- and that includes bat watching.
I’m lounging on a verdant patio watching a man in Groucho Marx glasses peck away at his laptop. To my right, two ladies with big hair and bright red lips howl, and howl, and howl. Nearby, a garage band launches into “Smoke on the Water.” A neon phallus hovers above. I check my watch -- almost time to see the bats.
No, I’m not in a David Lynch movie. I’m in Austin. People have a lot of preconceptions about Texas: It’s rich, it’s provincial, it’s a haven for conservative cowboys. Think of Austin as the cute, quirky friend who comes over for Thanksgiving dinner with Steely Dan albums under his arm.
Austin embraces its distinct un-Texasness. Two popular city slogans are “Keep Austin Weird” and “A Little Blue Oasis in a Big Red State.” This is a laid-back college town (the University of Texas flagship is here), and it caters to a young, creative population. It’s also the state capital, but Austin feels more collegiate than political. The city is packed with cheap Tex-Mex and barbecue joints, live music venues, and dance clubs (line-dancing is especially popular). Here, hipster-tinged hedonism reigns.
South Congress Avenue is the funkiest stretch of town. I’m at the noirish Hotel San Jose; just down the street is the Austin Motel, with its deliciously seedy sign that resembles either a cactus or a portion of the male anatomy, depending on your perspective. The thoroughfare feels a bit desolate midday; come sunset, the characters crawl out of the woodwork and the music starts to play.
Up the street is the Congress Avenue Bridge, home to 1.5 million Mexican free-tailed bats. The bats lurk there from April through October, taking to the sky every evening to forage for food. Skip the paid tours and hang out on the bridge for a stellar view. Nearby, Sixth Street is replete with live music clubs and rowdy college kids; Joe’s Generic Bar (315 East Sixth Street, 512-480-0171) is the spot for die-hard blues fans.
Getting around is simple: Trolleys, called ’Dillos, shuttle revelers to and fro for 50 cents. But if you’re a barbecue-lover, you’ll want to rent a car and make the 30-mile drive to Lockhart, dubbed the BBQ Capital of Texas. This little spot in the middle of nowhere is home to dueling ’cue emporiums Kreuz Market (512-398-2361, kreuzmarket.com) and Smitty’s Market (512-398-9344, smittysmarket.com). Don’t expect fancy sides or sauces. Here, the meat stands alone.