Simple sweet and sour

Easily dress up squash, kebabs, and more -- Sicilian-style.

September 13, 2009|Adam Ried

The flavor duo of sour and sweet, called agrodolce in Italian, is a hallmark of Sicilian cooking, and the sauce of the same name is a popular dressing for vegetables, chicken, fish, and even for some meats, such as the lamb in the kebabs below.

The two primary elements are usually vinegar and sugar, though other sour and sweet ingredients (lemon, raisins, honey) also come into play. The squash dish is something I learned in cooking school, but in my mind, the eggplant relish called caponata is the Godfather of sour-sweet dishes. Usually used as a side dish, it also makes a fantastic bruschetta topping with goat cheese or ricotta.

Sweet and Sour Squash

Serves 6

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, or more if necessary

1 medium butternut squash (about 2½ pounds), peeled, seeds removed, and cut into ½-inch slices

3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

1/3 cup red wine vinegar

2½ tablespoons sugar

Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint or basil

In a very large skillet over medium-high heat, heat the olive oil until it ripples. Add a single layer of squash and cook until lightly browned and tender, about 10 minutes, turning slices over once halfway through cooking. Remove the cooked squash to a paper-towel-lined plate. Repeat this process to cook the remaining batches.

Return the skillet to medium heat, add another tablespoon of olive oil if the pan looks dry, and add the garlic, cooking and stirring constantly until fragrant but not browned, about 45 seconds. Add the vinegar and sugar, swirl the skillet to dissolve the sugar, bring to a simmer, and cook, swirling frequently, until the mixture is syrupy, about 1½ minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat and set aside.

On a serving platter, arrange the squash and sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle the dressing over the squash, sprinkle with the mint or basil, and serve warm or at room temperature.

Caponata

Makes about 5 cups

1 large globe eggplant (about 2 pounds), peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes

Salt

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 large onion, finely chopped

1 large, ripe tomato, cored, seeded, grated, and skins discarded (about 1¼ cups)

½ cup Kalamata or green olives, pitted and quartered

2 tablespoons capers, drained

1/3 cup golden raisins

¼ cup red wine vinegar, or more to taste

2½ tablespoons brown sugar

3 large celery ribs, diced

Pepper

1/3 cup chopped fresh parsley

¼ cup pine nuts or slivered almonds, lightly toasted

In a colander set over a bowl, toss the eggplant with 1½ tablespoons salt. Place another bowl over the eggplant in the colander, weigh down the bowl, and allow the eggplant to drain for 1 to 2 hours. Rinse the eggplant under running water, and dry well with paper towels.