Beyond the sprawl, a family has a ball at a beach in Mexico

August 16, 2009|Ann Wilson Lloyd, Globe Correspondent

TRONCONES, Mexico - Franklin the Turtle is the favorite storybook friend of our grandson Waylon, 3. Imagine his delight at herding hundreds of baby Franklins into the twilight surf during our three-generation family beach vacation at this surfing village near Zihuatanejo, on the Pacific coast.

“Can I keep him?’’ Waylon asked as he hoisted a tiny air-swimming turtle.

“This little Franklin needs to swim away and find his mommy,’’ I explained, slightly tweaking science. We watched as his hatchling scrambled down the beach, guided by Angel Maldovinas Monje, the aptly named local naturalist who had invited us to help.

Moments like these are the reason we plan a multigeneration vacation every so often. Like many extended families, ours is spread across the country. Gatherings back home can begin to feel like Groundhog Day: ever less exciting for returnees, ever more exhausting for aging hosts.

A vacation rental in an appealing destination can be an excellent family adventure.

Beach vacations in winter are a big hit with us. Mexico’s Pacific coast is a bargain, and cities like Zihuatanejo and Puerto Vallarta are easy flights from the various US cities our family connects through. Popular resort meccas like these can be touristy, though, their beaches choked with chaises, vendors, and crowded high-rise hotels.

We’ve learned to look just beyond the cities for safe, clean, friendly villages like Troncones, bucolic places that are minimally developed and within a short drive of large airports. Here, small inns are often interspersed with beachfront villa rentals, frequently owned by US or Canadian expats but managed locally.

Vacation rental homes offer full kitchens, indoor and outdoor space to gather or romp, and quiet and privacy. In Mexico, daily maid service and pool maintenance are usually included. Especially when traveling with children - in our case, Waylon and his sister, Quincy, 5 months - these bonuses trump the swankiest hotel.

Even without kids, a rental villa in a small beach village can be idyllic. On their honeymoon in 2004, our daughter Amanda and her husband, Miles, discovered the surfing village of Sayulita, just north of Puerto Vallarta, where they stayed in a small cottage overlooking the sea. Their blissful experience led us to return there in 2006 for a Christmas week, four-generation family gathering.

Eleven of us were divided between two villas, each with its own pool. It was no honeymoon, but it was crazy fun, and best summed up by our daughter Erin’s Christmas Day query to the table: “Which would you rather be eating right now - this fresh shrimp taco, or Grandma’s Christmas ham? No, offense, Grandma.’’

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