PARIS -- Jacques Dutronc’s classic and controversial 1967 song “Il est cinq heures Paris s’éveille’’ is a set of snapshots of Paris between night and day - everything from the Eiffel Tower’s chilly feet to bakers making loaves called “bâtards’’ - a thousand quirky details that define the singer’s city.
Tighter times are a perfect moment to shift away from the glamour and well-worn paths and more toward the individual events that define the City of Light for its inhabitants.
I seek advice from Geneviève Brame, a friend I met years ago at a signing for her book “Chez Vous en France,’’ a guide for people looking to set up camp here for the long haul.
Forgetting I’m in France, I expect practicality, but instead get sociology and philosophy.
“There’s a shift happening. People are moving from conspicuous consumption to simply taking advantage of the city,’’ Brame says. “Paris is good for luxury and simplicity. You can sit on a beautiful terrace with a bottle of champagne or sit on the canal with some good bread and good cheese.’’
Parisians are heading toward what she calls “slow food’’ tourism. “The idea isn’t to go from one museum to another but to take a slow walk and enjoy it as a living city.’’
How, for example, would a tourist figure this out? “By going to the town hall,’’ she says.
Brame recommends stopping by the “mairie,’’ or town hall, of each arrondissement to see what’s happening - the front desk tends to be littered with fliers for local happenings. There are concerts, poetry readings, guided tours - and most are free.
I press her for a specific favorite and she shrugs. “Paris has its special rhythm - it takes its time. I love waking up early and having breakfast on the Seine.’’
Like a picnic?
“Oh, non! You must have your café on a terrace and you must be where the sun will be.’’
That said, the idea of Paris on the cheap seems inherently depressing - like missing out on the best stuff. Being frugal is doable but it requires preparation, an open mind, and a willingness to trade the bling for a different kind of authenticity.
“You have to detach yourself from the glitzy image of Paris and move away from tourist attractions where you’re a captive audience,’’ says guidebook writer Anna Brooke, who has penned everything from “MTV France’’ to the upcoming “Paris Free & Dirt Cheap’’ for Frommer’s.
“As far as capital cities go, Paris is very livable - it’s not just about business,’’ says Brooke, “and even in the center you can find neighborhoods that cater to the locals.’’
