And baby makes 3 happy diners

An early start is crucial to an enjoyable meal

August 05, 2009|Anne V. Nelson, Globe Staff
(Page 3 of 3)

Scampo, in the Liberty Hotel at the foot of the Longfellow Bridge, doesn’t start filling up until 6, so at 5:30 we had our pick of tables, thanks to a considerate host. My parents, in town from Des Moines, were joining us for dinner. Clearly not up for another big night out, the babe fell asleep on the way to the restaurant and didn’t wake until we had eaten, paid, and left. It was like a flashback to the easy old days. The place wasn’t quiet. Two men beside us were doing business over gargantuan 22-ounce veal steaks and families shared selections from the mozzarella bar (we enjoyed grilled asparagus and peaches with soft, mild imported mozzarella and a “pesto’’ of mint, celery leaves, pistachios, and arugula). Butter-poached lobster came with fresh, flavorful Swiss chard; Dad, a gardener, loved even the stems. Sweet, delicately cooked crab risotto came with several bits of crab shell, though it was still divine. I was only disappointed by the fact that I was never brought the takeout box of my meatball pizza, which I had hoped to eat for lunch the next day.

With Alonzo still conked out but the restaurant getting louder, we took a chance on dessert. Meringue Pavlova topped with lemon curd is not exactly in line with Scampo’s mostly Italian offerings, but according to chef Mario Capone, it is one of owner Lydia Shire’s favorites.

But nothing is as sweet as a baby just up from a nap. As the valet was swinging my car around, Alonzo opened his eyes and beamed at his grandma. We hurried home and he ate in his own highchair that night. Soon enough, though, we’ll have him out on the town again - early.

Restaurant critic Devra First will return in a couple of weeks.

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