And baby makes 3 happy diners

An early start is crucial to an enjoyable meal

August 05, 2009|Anne V. Nelson, Globe Staff

Few sights are as pleasing to the 9-month-old eye as a near-empty restaurant early on a summer evening. Low sun streams in through the windows, glinting off the glassware. Friendly bus staff, not yet busy, play peekaboo as they polish silverware, and every guest who walks into the room gives you the love you deserve. “Oh, a baby!’’ they say, smiling. Someone hands you a biscuit.

When our son was born last October, my husband convinced the owner of India Quality on Commonwealth Avenue to deliver takeout to us at Brigham and Women’s. Since then, the three of us have shared two or three dozen other restaurant meals. Even at 6 months, Alonzo would easily snooze through a Peking duck dinner at Royal East in Cambridge. And one night at Rendezvous in Central Square, a young couple told us we were “like an advertisement for procreation.’’ We were lingering over creamy lemon-buttermilk pudding (one order apiece, because I couldn’t bring myself to share), the baby smiling in his sleep.

But now that Alonzo is in day care and on a schedule, he eats early. Some weekends we’ll go out past his 7 p.m. bedtime to our regular spot, La Voile on Newbury Street, where we ask for quick service and keep him busy with a hunk of baguette. This strategy doesn’t always work. One night, Alonzo tossed his bread aside and insisted on sitting in my lap, so Jason, my husband, had to cut my steak for me. I now tend to order fish or risotto, either of which I can eat with one hand. We have also had dessert packed to go when a meltdown seemed imminent. (Come to think of it, I have a ramekin at home I need to return to La Voile. Restaurateurs are incredibly obliging if you just ask.) And who hasn’t seen a new dad pacing in the bar area with baby while mom looks on, guiltily poking at her main course?

Since restaurants open at 5 or 5:30 p.m., we decided to try dining out then, when we know there won’t be crowds, the specials won’t have run out, and we can all three enjoy ourselves.

The peekaboo-players work at Hungry Mother in Kendall Square, where Alonzo was given that quarter-size, warm biscuit. (The adult version is draped with salty, country-style ham.) After some Gerber and a quick nurse - no one batted an eye, not the staff, not the two gentlemen dining to our left, and not the group of six across the room - the baby fell asleep like a napkin across my lap.

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