Easy eggplant

For scooping with pita, as a relish, or on its own, a flavorful puree of this vegetable is a simple, delightful dish.

August 02, 2009|Adam Ried

If the present economic atmosphere of forbearance has curtailed your caviar habit, may I suggest a “caviar” of decidedly humbler origin than beluga, osetra, or sevruga? I’m talking about eggplant.

The cuisines of most Mediterranean and Middle East countries include some type of eggplant salad. The purple orb is usually grilled or roasted, mashed or pureed, and seasoned with olive oil and lemon, at a minimum. In this most basic form, the dish is often called “peasant caviar,” presumably because after grilling or roasting, this pedestrian vegetable assumes a rich, lush -- patrician, if you will -- texture.

While you can certainly cook the eggplant in the oven or on a gas grill, grilling it over charcoal infuses the flesh with a delectable smoky flavor that transforms these simple dishes into something really special. Best served at room temperature or lightly chilled, eggplant purees can fill many roles -- appetizer dip for toasted pita or fresh vegetables, anchor of a meze platter, relish to dress up simply cooked meat or fish, or hearty vegetable side dish. I like garlicky eggplant purees, but you can certainly reduce garlic quantities for tamer flavors, if you wish.

Grilled or Roasted Eggplant for PureeMakes about 2 cups

2½ pounds eggplant, poked several times with a fork

Prepare a charcoal grill (with bottom vents open). When coals are covered with gray ash, arrange them in an even layer, set the grate in place, cover, and let the grill heat for 5 minutes. For a gas grill, turn all the burners to high, close the lid, and heat for 15 minutes. Grill the eggplants over a hot fire until the skins are charred and the flesh is very soft and collapsed, about 30 minutes (less for tender Asian eggplants), turning them 2 or 3 times during cooking.

Alternatively, adjust the oven rack to the center position and heat the oven to 450 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil and roast the eggplants on it until the skins are wrinkled and the flesh is very soft and collapsed, 45 to 60 minutes (less for tender Asian eggplants), turning them 2 or 3 times during cooking.

When the eggplants are cool enough to handle, halve them lengthwise and scoop the flesh into a fine mesh strainer set over a bowl or in a sink (you should have about 2 cups); discard the skins. With a large spoon, gently fold the eggplant in the strainer to help expel liquid; continue until liquid has nearly stopped dripping from the strainer, about 3 minutes; discard the liquid.

Peasant Caviar (Eggplant Puree)

Makes about 2½ cups

1 recipe grilled or roasted eggplant for puree

1 medium garlic clove, minced

3 tablespoons minced shallot or sweet onion, such as Vidalia

¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice, or more to taste

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for serving (optional)