On my way out I stop at Drakes Bay Oysters, where farmer Kevin Lunny grows the luxurious bivalves on Drakes Estero right in the middle of the park. His is the only shucking and packing operation in the state. Right now he grows Pacific oysters but would like to switch to the native Olympia oysters, which he calls “the delicacy of all delicacies.’’ I’m happy with the Pacifics. I buy a dozen and sit by the shore shucking and slurping, wishing I had bought more wine.
Coastal meandering
Marin County’s wild sea and tall trees, cattle ranches and oyster beds
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North of Point Reyes Station the ranches roll on. On my way out of West Marin and up the coast I stop for a snack at The Marshall Store, a former general store right on Tomales Bay. The owners serve Dungeness crab sandwiches, creamy clam chowder, and deep-cupped oysters either raw or grilled over a hot fire. I order a crab sandwich and more oysters and sit outside watching the bay.
At dusk the water is dead calm. There is drizzle and the drone of tree frogs. The tall grass is alive with red-winged blackbirds. In this place, the down comforters, the cheese and wine stand out against the rain and the hills and the infinite ocean. It all makes for a place that is difficult to leave.
Jonathan Levitt can be reached at www.jonathanlevitt.com.
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