Lobster in the rough

I favor the in-the-rough, order-at-the-counter, eat-out-on-a-picnic-table shacks. These are usually pet friendly and often come with free entertainment: You can watch lobstermen unload their catch and refuel and restock their boats. No need to dress up - better to dress down so you can skip the bib. Another plus: Most allow you to bring the go-withs, from cheese and crackers to salads and rolls to wine and beer.

And remember that while lobster prices reflect market conditions, the farther you travel from the trappings of civilization and the deeper you get into bona fide lobstering territory, the fewer frills and the less costly the goods.

When given a choice, I opt for simplicity: If the joint does only one thing, there’s a better chance it’s doing it right. Take Round Pond Lobstermen’s Co-op (Round Pond Harbor, Bristol, Pemaquid Peninsula, 207-529-5725), a more-rustic-than-most spot overlooking a picture-postcard harbor. Buddy Poland serves lobster, steamers, corn-on-the-cob, and chips. Period. When he runs low on lobster, he saunters down the dock, climbs into his dingy, putt-putts out to a lobster car - that floating crate where the crustaceans are stored - and brings back reinforcements.

For those who don’t like lobster, there’s Muscongus Bay Lobster (Round Pond Harbor, Bristol, Pemaquid Peninsula, 207-529-2251, www.mainefreshlobster.com), a larger and wee bit fancier place with a bigger menu. I have friends who favor this spot not only because of the expanded choices - lobster and crab rolls, stews and chowders - but also because it has some sheltered tables, if the weather looks threatening. It also serves fresh Pemaquid oysters, which gives it points in my book. And it earns extra points for having a touch tank filled with all manner of slimy and spiky sea critters for the kids.