At Rudi’s, eclectic tastes feel like home

July 15, 2009

To understand Rudi’s Resto*Café & Bar you need only know the story behind its Newmarket fries. This haystack of crisp potatoes ($6.95), layered nachos-style with cheese, chilies, spicy black beans, and a sour cream-like Salvadoran crema, is more than just a guilty pleasure. It’s an attempt to reach out and pull together a diverse neighborhood - just as Rudi’s eclectic menu and upcoming music nights also aim to do.

For nearly two decades, Rudi’s served up light meals at Rowes Wharf. Last fall, rising rent triggered a move to Crosstown Center, an office and retail complex on the line between the South End and Roxbury near Boston Medical Center. In their first salvo to their new neighbors, co-owners Mark Koeck and Julian Maria created the fries.

The Newmarket name hails from the nearby Roxbury square. The recipe aims to sate the bar food cravings of students at Boston University’s Medical Campus next door. Thick dollops of crema on top are a nod to the South End’s Latino community. The greaseless fries and smart toppings aim to appeal to foodies of all walks. Call it hub grub.

But the something-for-everyone approach doesn’t end here. Koeck and Maria kept the best of their Rowes Wharf menu, including lemony, scallion-flecked orzo and artichoke salad ($3.50 side). A dinner menu is fit for a range of tastes and wallets.

Choices run from burgers ($8.95-$10.95) and comfort favorites like turkey dinners ($12.95) and mac ’n’ cheese ($3.50 side) to trendy seared ahi tuna ($10) or blackened catfish ($14.95). Maria, a native of the Seychelles, also turns out island cuisine, like juicy herb chicken with spicy beans and rice ($11.95).

Keeping both the Crayola and the cosmo sets in mind, the menu offers kids’ meals ($6.95), well-mixed cocktails, and a balanced wine list with half-bottles.

Everything we tried was satisfying, if not always memorable. Rich spinach lasagna ($9.75), a soothing bowl of kale soup ($3.95), mini pizzas with nicely chewy crusts ($6.95), and fluffy tiramisu ($6.95) are enjoyable. Bog salad (below) is the standout with its tender grilled shrimp ($9.95), an elegant cranberry vinaigrette, and just enough pistachios and blue cheese to balance a toss of fresh spinach and orange.

The 200-seat storefront holds two venues: the restaurant with oak booths and subdued red and olive walls and a cafe that serves as a lounge by night. R&B evenings are held on Thursdays and by fall you’ll find gospel brunches, afternoon tea dances, and Latin, piano bar, and Bollywood nights. As with those fries, the idea is to offer a little something for everyone.

DENISE TAYLOR

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