Louisiana comforts in Cambridge

June 24, 2009|Devra First, Globe Staff
(Page 3 of 3)

Fried catfish is good, too (though not as interesting as some of the other offerings); a piece of semolina-crusted fish comes with more of those green tomatoes, mashed potatoes, and pickled jalapeno aioli. The jalapeno flavor doesn’t come through enough to jazz this up, but the fish is nicely fried.

The least of the entrees is a plate of crepes filled with spinach, cheese, and tomatoes. The crepes themselves are excellent, but the spicing in the filling is too sweet. It makes these taste like blintzes and overpowers the smoked mozzarella inside. A shaved fennel salad on the side is refreshing, though the fennel could be shaved thinner.

The dessert menu hits the right notes with the likes of pecan pie and banana pudding. Rachael Cummings makes the sweets (though Layman says a Petsi pie may turn up occasionally). Tupelo’s brown butter pecan pie is all Southern sweetness balanced by woody nuts, a worthy slice. It comes topped with Tupelo honey ice cream made by Toscanini’s. Coconut cream pie gets a welcome twist from bits of peanut butter crunch candy. A double chocolate bread pudding is dry on the two occasions we try it.

Tupelo has a beer and wine license. The wine is reasonably priced and includes biodynamic Alsatian pinot blanc ($26 per bottle) and Argentine Malbec ($28). But it’s beer that really suits this food. There are two rotating selections on tap, plus the likes of Allagash white, Duvel, and Abita Turbodog in bottles. It’s nice to see the last, the quintessential Louisiana beer. There’s also sweet tea and a watermelon sangria that tastes almost exactly like Jolly Ranchers.

Tupelo’s entrees range from $9 to $15, more proof that one can eat well without spending a lot of money. It makes the food that much more satisfying, and probably helps Tupelo’s popularity. On a weekend night, you may face an awkward wait crammed into a corner by the bar. Tupelo takes reservations for parties of four or more, but only Sunday through Thursday before 6:30 p.m.

But what’s a little discomfort when such comfort follows? You’ll say it with me: Yum.

Devra First can be reached at dfirst@globe.com.

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