Rumpled, rocky Azores traces volcanic roots

The tour guide explains that this volcano is dormant, but not yet extinct; for that, it still has 3,000 years to go. Meanwhile, it's safe to gaze up the twisting chimney, where misty daylight lights up the mineral streaks that have striped the wall in ochre and rust.

We spend our final day roaming one last collapsed volcano cone, Monte Brasil, wrapped in the ancient stone parapet of Fort São João Baptista. From this promontory south of the city, the view takes in miles of ocean. In the opposite direction the city stretches out, a sea of low, white buildings capped in red tile. It's a wistful moment.

Next time we will soak up the history of Angra, drive to the scenic harbor of Praia da Vitória, explore São Miguel's crater lakes, and, perhaps, fly to one of the seven other islands.

Jane Roy Brown can be reached at regan-brown.com.