Big on 'bistronomics'

Catalan capital reigns over Spain's cuisine with dishes that are creative and . . . 'sincere'

April 26, 2009|Joe Ray, Globe Correspondent

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Worthy movements with names like prêt à manger ("ready to eat") and neopopular grew, and high-quality tapas and ethnic restaurants sprang up and flourished.

Yet with all of this happening, it's clear that Arenos loves bistronomic food and its chefs, the stars of Barcelona's bright future.

"It's a rough life," says Arenos. "They don't have a lot of money and their restaurants are their lives."

"Our little guy, Nil, used to sleep over there when we first opened," says chef Roger Martínez, pointing at what looks like a closet shelf behind a curtain.

Martínez cooks while his wife, Marta Floria, runs the floor and does the accounting at their restaurant, La Mifanera, in the Sarrià-Sant Gervasi district.

"It's hard work. Sometimes the bank calls and it gets a little tense," says Martínez. "When you work for someone else, that sort of thing is their problem, but this is our place and we want people to eat well."

Martínez concentrates on creative tapas and rice dishes, a pair of favorites for the local audience. "You don't come here for fish or meat," says Martínez, "unless it's in the rice."

One of his current favorite dishes is an artichoke risotto with local anise liquor, Parmesan, and a dash of espresso grounds. It sounds gimmicky, but it's well thought out.

"There's sweetness from the anise, bitter from the coffee, salt from the Parmesan, and acidity from the artichokes," he says.

"After months and months, you're changing dishes and trying to keep up - it can get tiring. If you're not motivated," says Gresca chef Peña with a grin, "it's impossible."

It's not impossible. It's fantastic.

Joe Ray can be reached at www.joe-ray.com.