Raw deal

Sushi lovers in the market for good value have a world of possibilities

February 25, 2009|Devra First, Globe Staff

A meal of sashimi and sushi can be a real indulgence, with specialty seafood flown in from Japan and prepared with loving rigor by a trained master. At the best restaurants, you can spend hundreds of dollars, walking away with both appetite and aesthetics satisfied.

In a perfect world, each time you crave cool slices of pristine fish, perfect vinegared rice, and creativity that doesn't stomp on tradition's toes, you can head to Oishii or o ya. Better yet, you can head to Logan and fly umpteen hours to have breakfast at Tokyo's Tsukiji fish market, recently reopened to tourists after a ban brought on by bad behavior.

But in our imperfect world of stretched paychecks and scant vacation time, you can still find satisfaction in sushi. There are plenty of restaurants around town offering good (sometimes great) fish, prepared with care, at good prices. Sometimes the experience is more prosaic than at high-end places - sometimes it's not.

We canvassed many of the area's reasonably priced sushi shops looking for value. Along the way we ate some godawful specimens. We risked Jeremy Piven-worthy mercury levels. And we had some lovely meals at the following restaurants. They are just a few of the worthy and affordable options in the Boston area. We're sure you have your own favorites - sushi engenders fierce partisanship - and we hope you'll let us know what they are.

Blue Fin

This stalwart of reasonably priced sushi is located in the Porter Exchange building, set apart from the mini food court that serves up ramen, curry rice, and Korean specialties. Don't confuse it with Kotobukiya, a sushi counter that's part of the food court. Blue Fin has much better fish, nothing fancy but always fresh.

There are two particularly beautiful things about Blue Fin. First, the sushi combos: 12 pieces for $20, 20 pieces for $32, 30 pieces for $46, and 100 pieces for $100 - at about $2 a piece a la carte, a savings of $4-$100. The more you eat, the cheaper it gets. These generally only pay if you're eating nigiri (raw fish atop a pat of rice); with maki (sushi rolls that count for six pieces each), it's often cheaper to order a la carte. Second, nigiri is ordered by the piece rather than the pair as is often the case. This means more variety for your money.

Japanese families and Cambridge students rub elbows here. The restaurant is usually busy - the first sign you're onto something when seeking good affordable sushi. Blue Fin expanded a few years back, a serene space painted in soothing neutrals with mellow lighting and basic tables; there's also a branch in Middleton.

JP Seafood Cafe



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