An island with lots to do, including reinvent itself

January 18, 2009|Necee Regis, Globe Correspondent

ST. GEORGE'S, Grenada - "Watch out! Get back!"

It took a moment to register that the warnings were directed at me, as I blissfully paddled through the crystalline pool at the base of Annandale Falls. I ducked beneath a rocky ledge just in time to avoid being hit by a human torpedo, one of a group of local young men called Annandale Jumpers who leap from a cliff above the 50-foot-high falls to entertain visitors and make money.

There are a half-dozen of so waterfalls on the tropical West Indian island of Grenada, which lies 100 miles north of Venezuela at the southern end of the Grenadines. With only three days to explore its many charms, I had chosen to visit the most easily accessible waterfall, not far off a winding road in the 3,800-acre Grand Etang National Park. I was rethinking my decision to visit this popular site when the jumper broke the surface of the water.

"How can I stay in touch with a beautiful woman like you?" he asked.

It was then I decided that even the most popular parts of Grenada are worth a visit, at least once.

The largest of a three-island state, including Carriacou and Petite Martinique, Grenada's 21-mile length and 12-mile width may not sound large but its varied terrain - from tropical rain forest heights to sheltered coral reefs, from the white sands of Grand Anse Beach to Atlantic mangrove habitats perfect for kayaks and bird-watching - offers more than enough to keep a curious traveler busy.

Many people know Grenada as the Spice Island, or they might have a vague memory of the political upheaval that led President Reagan to order an invasion in 1983. The political situation, now resolved with a freely elected democratic government, combined with the devastation wrought by Hurricane Ivan in 2004, which decimated the nutmeg and spice crops, left the island bereft and looking for ways to bring in cash.

That was when Grenada turned to tourism. Its delay in development, compared with its neighbors, may be a blessing in disguise, as new projects aim to promote eco-friendly tourism, spa hotels, and architecture that complements the landscape. At the same time, the island is making an effort to preserve historical architecture and create wildlife sanctuaries.

With many coral reefs, Grenada attracts scuba and snorkeling fans. A prime example of eco-friendly tourism can be found along Molinere Reef, on the west coast two miles north of the capital, St. George's. Within an area designated as a national marine park, underwater explorers will encounter 65 sculptures by Jason de Caires Taylor, including a piece called "Vicissitudes," a circle of life-size children holding hands. The sculptures serve the dual purpose of acting as a new reef for marine life as well as diverting activity from reef areas endangered by overuse.

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