Beyond the beach

Low-key Kauai gets you to your feet, not with baubles but with nature's variety and an urge to preserve

January 18, 2009|Kari Bodnarchuk, Globe Correspondent

KAUAI, Hawaii - Winter had taken its toll. Before my friend Sarah or I had a meltdown, we decided to escape to Hawaii's Garden Island to recharge. It took no time to adjust our internal clocks to the rhythm and pace of island life. But after a couple of days of swimming and tuning out everything except what time we needed to flip over, the allure of Kauai's scenery wooed us off our beach blankets.

Few places on earth offer the visual splendor and natural diversity of this Pacific oasis. In an area half the size of Rhode Island, Kauai has lush, fluted sea cliffs that rise 3,000 feet above the ocean, the largest tropical reef in Hawaii, a natural wonder dubbed the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific" by Mark Twain, and 43 white-sand beaches that are open to the public, whether they are located in front of a chichi resort or at the end of a dirt lane.

Although it's fourth among the eight biggest Hawaiian islands, Kauai has maintained a cozy, intimate feel. Only about 3 percent of the land has been developed, mostly within earshot of ocean waves, and no building can rise higher than a palm tree, or four stories. Locals have also ensured that the charming one-lane bridges won't be widened to make way for tour buses or construction trucks.

It's possible to drive around the island in a few hours, not counting stops, but you'll need a week to explore all the towns and scenery along the way. This year, visitors can find dynamite deals on everything from surfing lessons and catamaran trips to lodging at some of the island's best beach hotels and cottages. (Avoid deals that seem too good. We rented a jalopy from a no-name shop and soon realized the cars were of questionable roadworthiness and legal status.)

When planning your route, keep in mind that the "ring road" doesn't completely encircle the island, due to the impenetrable cliffs and the canyon on the west coast. Waimea Canyon, which is accessible from the southwestern side of the island, is well worth exploring, whether you hike into this gaping, red-rock wonder or drive up the magnificent, winding road to Waimea Canyon Lookout. From here, you can peer into gorges carved by the Waimea River 3,567 feet below.

Since it was March, westerly swells prevented us from kayaking along the Na Pali Coast. Instead, we drove to the east coast, rented a two-person kayak, and spent a day exploring the placid Wailua River, an ideal outing even for families with small children. The most popular round-trip route includes an easy 4-mile paddle and 2-mile hike through a wonderful, jungle-like forest that makes it clear why scenes for "Raiders of the Lost Ark" and "Jurassic Park" were shot on this island.

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