Between the covers is where they live to be

Independence defines the browsers, the buyers, and the sellers whose shared capital is books

January 04, 2009|Janet Mendelsohn, Globe Correspondent

MONTPELIER - Robert Kasow looks mighty relaxed for a small business owner, given the economic turmoil everywhere.

"I don't think I could re-create this business anyplace else," said the proprietor of Rivendell Books. "Montpelier is America the way it used to be."

The nation's smallest state capital, population 7,495, is home to four independent bookstores whose creaky floors and aisles of books continue to lure devoted customers. Visitors seeking local color can scope out downtown by foot in under an hour unless they linger over a cup at Capitol Grounds Coffee, research pellet stoves at Aubuchon Hardware, or debate vinyl vs. downloads over bins of vintage albums at Riverwalk Records. In this compact seat of government, merchants sell outdoor gear, crafts, and consignment goods, but there's no Barnes & Noble, no Starbucks, no McDonald's.

One recent Thursday, four writers arrived for a weekend in this city where we first met as midcareer students at Vermont College of Fine Arts. Four years later, we were back to celebrate "The Disorder of Longing," the first published novel by one of our own, Natasha Bauman, of Venice, Calif. Writer and editor Virginia Reiser from South Dennis met Bauman's plane in Burlington, while poet Kitty Forbes from Lookout Mountain, Ga., made the three-hour drive with me from Boston.

Checking into Betsy's Bed & Breakfast almost felt like coming home. As students, we had opted for Betsy's thick quilts and private bathrooms, forsaking the nearby dorms while attending intensive 10-day workshops on campus. We dubbed ourselves the Parlor Girls, and many an evening we gathered to unwind over a glass of wine in a sitting room. Our college days were over, but we were back to de-stress and refresh, and to explore the town to see what had changed. Could the small bookstores be the charmers we remembered?

But first, dinner. At the Black Door Bar and Bistro, exposed brick, dark walls, and dim lighting encourage diners to focus on the slow-simmered entrees made with local and organic ingredients. Our reunion kicked off with seared salmon ($14), cider braised short ribs ($14), and grilled rack of lamb with roasted pumpkin and spiced maple syrup glaze ($22).

The next morning, our search began in earnest at Bear Pond Books.

"I love that the old wooden bookcases don't match and that while chain bookstores all look the same, this building has always been part of the town," Bauman said.

Founded in 1973, Bear Pond was across the street until 1992 when a massive flood soaked its basement. Loyal customers helped salvage most of the inventory and move the rest across the street. Two years ago, Claire Benedict and her husband, Kasow, bought their second shop from its longtime owners.

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