Art, science, comfort at a Vermont inn

December 28, 2008|Checking In, Necee Regis, Globe Correspondent

MANCHESTER VILLAGE, Vt. - It's easy to imagine a visit to the Wilburton Inn as a movie, the opening credits scrolling over a car ascending a winding road beneath arching trees toward a grand estate with sweeping views of the Battenkill River Valley.

Inside the stately three-floor Tudor mansion, built in the early 20th century, the plot unfolds amid meandering parlors, dining rooms, and guest rooms filled with a mishmash of antiques, Oriental carpets, carved mahogany moldings, lace curtains topped with decorative satin swags, crystal chandeliers, and a museum's worth of art, all populated with an interesting cast of characters which includes Jackson, the dog.

Of course, a vivid imagination isn't required to enjoy the Wilburton Inn's many charms. But it doesn't hurt.

Enter the innkeepers, stage left. Georgette Levis, called "Gorgeous" by her family, is the sister of the late playwright Wendy Wasserstein. Albert Levis, a Greek-born psychiatrist, is the author of "Conflict Analysis: The Formal Theory of Behavior." Together they manage the 23-acre B&B that includes the 11-bedroom mansion with a restaurant featuring new American cuisine, as well as four cottages, circa 1950, some with small kitchens, separate living rooms, and private decks. A fifth building, the Curry Reunion House, has five bedrooms with baths and looks like a Swiss chalet.

Arriving in the shoulder season between the leaf peepers and the skiers at nearby Stratton and Bromley mountains, I was the inn's lone guest. Checking in, I discovered the restaurant was closed for the week, as were many in the area. I also learned the innkeepers don't live on-site (cue horror movie music) but was reassured there is always staff on the property overnight (switch back to soothing Merchant Ivory production score).

I was graciously upgraded from third floor Room 11 to second floor Room 4, though I would have been happy in either accommodation. Room 4 is spacious, with a comfortable king-size four-post bed and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the valley. There's a chaise for lounging, an Oriental carpet on top of standard wall-to-wall, a boxy TV, and original art on wallpapered walls.

Overall, the architecture makes a better impression than the furnishings. The Levises have owned the property since 1987, and there's a decidedly '80s feel to the fabrics, carpeting, wallpaper, and curtains. Georgette confided, before learning I was there to write a review, that she's planning to upgrade the rooms.

The bathrooms, especially, could use some TLC. The bathroom in Room 4 is small and offers the basics: a tub-shower with sliding glass doors, sink, toilet, and floor tiles of dark wood. The towels are thin and white; the bath mat is gray.