Penny-wise in Paris

Places to feel liberated from overspending, to feel close to the underappreciated

December 14, 2008|Patricia Harris and David Lyon, Globe Correspondents

Songwriters, poets, and memoirists all have had plenty to say about the City of Light, but none of them ever claimed it was cheap. Even with closet-sized hotel rooms at $200 a night and coffee at $3 per half inch, there are ways to see Paris on a tight budget.

Savvy travelers know, for example, that admission to the Louvre museum is free on Bastille Day and on the first Sunday of the month. If you decide not to stand in a long line of penny pinchers, the roughly $12 admission is still a bargain. So is the $15 fare to ride the elevator to the Eiffel Tower's top observation deck, an experience that no one but the most severe acrophobe should miss. Better yet, admission to Notre-Dame, the city's Gothic cathedral, is always free.

A surprising number of Paris attractions are free. Few achieve the majesty of Notre-Dame, but they are hardly also-rans. Our favorites include unsung art museums and intimate "personality" museums where you glimpse the private lives of cultural giants. Some of these sites are a bit out of the way, but strolling the streets of Paris is a fabulous cheap thrill, as is exploring the less central arron dissements. Who knows? You might even meet a few budget-conscious Parisians.

Two art museums offer a virtual crib course in Western art from antiquity to the 21st century. The Petit Palais serves as the people's Louvre, representing every era from ancient Greece and Rome to the onset of World War I. Awash with natural light from windows and skylights, the building was constructed for the 1900 World's Fair and was recently renovated to regain its Belle Époque grandeur. The most striking permanent galleries chronicle the 19th century revolution in landscape painting that began with Courbet's Realism and culminated in the lush Impressionism of Sisley and Monet. Curators play around with the galleries, sometimes hanging contemporary work next to historical pieces, and integrating decorative arts - Art Nouveau furniture, Japonisme ceramics - with the painting and sculpture.

The building that houses the Museum of Modern Art of the City of Paris dates from another World's Fair (1937), and its original collections came from the Petit Palais in 1961. A recent renovation places the 9,000 works of mostly 20th-century art in bright settings.

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