Centuries mingle at Vineyard inn

December 14, 2008|Checking in, Ellen Albanese, Globe Staff

VINEYARD HAVEN - A framed photograph on the third-floor landing of Mansion House shows a proud fisherman holding a huge striped bass, next to a curly-haired little girl obviously basking in her father's reflected glory. Today that little girl is the inn's assistant general manager. Nili Beth Goldstein told us she tried to leave, but the call of the island was too strong. After earning a degree at Brandeis University in Waltham, she came back to Martha's Vineyard to help her parents, Sherman and Susan Goldstein, run the inn.

That sense of family and tradition is strong at Mansion House. The wide hallways are lined with black-and-white photographs of the inn dating to the 1920s, and glass cases display Sherm Goldstein's collection of vintage fishing hooks and lures. The aforementioned striper, a 52-pounder, greets diners from above the door of the inn's restaurant, Zephrus.

A short walk from the ferry dock, Mansion House sits like a grand dame at the top of Main Street, a large, gray Victorian trimmed in blue with peach and plum accents and a great wraparound porch. Inside, big windows, cushioned rattan furniture, and baskets of hydrangeas give the pleasant lobby a beach house feel. There's a guest computer in the corner.

We knew the inn had a health club but we were surprised at how large and well equipped it is, with a 75-foot indoor pool, whirlpool, steam room, sauna, treadmills, stationary bikes, ellipticals, an aerobics studio, and a weight room. And all this is in addition to a full-service spa.

Our room on the third floor was bright and airy. Pale yellow walls, crisp white trim, and bed linens in peach and green hues created a summery palette. We had a king bed, a louvered armoire holding a television and refrigerator, a cushioned chair and ottoman, and a small desk. Double doors led to a tiny metal balcony with a black wrought iron table and two chairs with a distant view of the harbor. Sitting there was not for the faint of heart, however, as the view through the grated floor was to the street three floors down.

It was a treat to find decaf coffee and tea packets along with regular beside the single-cup coffeemaker, and that there were both glass mugs and takeout cups with lids. We steered clear of the honor basket with overpriced beverages, snacks, and sweets.

The bathroom had a wide pedestal sink, plenty of lighting over the big mirror, and a hair dryer on the wall. The curved shower rod made the standard tub and shower feel more spacious.

One of the best features of Mansion House is a large rooftop deck overlooking the harbor. On a warm late-summer day there was a nice breeze as we settled into a lounge to sip complimentary lemonade.