Volpi Foods founder John (Giovanni) Volpi began making sausages in America at the dawn of the 20th century. In 2002, his great niece, Lorenza Pasetti, became the third generation to cure, dry, and age what cookbook author and TV personality Michael Chiarello calls "the best domestic artisan salami." Chiarello's Napa Style brand Chianti salami, made by Volpi Foods, is available in the company's retail store, Volpi Deli, on the Hill. Midwestern prosciutto hams are dried on the premises for up to 12 months and sliced to order. If you're looking for the real deal, Volpi also imports true Parma ham.
Just down the street from the Volpi Deli, DiGregorio's is the Italian version of a neighborhood supermarket. Family owned since 1971, three generations of the DiGregorio family are now in the market together; Dora, the 75-year-old matriarch, continues to work six days a week. The deli counter boasts house-made salsiccia, a mild sausage that is still mixed according to founder Salvatore DiGregorio's recipe. Provel cheese, a St. Louis original, is known as pizza topping but also melts well in lasagna or on eggplant Parmesan. Pick up a bag of frozen breaded ravioli, deep fry them like the locals do, sprinkle with Parmesan, and dip in marinara sauce.
DiGregorio's breaded ravioli are better known as toasted ravioli, the stuff of legend in eastern Missouri. Supposedly, a cook working for Charlie Gitto's restaurant dropped a few ravioli into breadcrumbs. Not wanting to throw away the now breaded pasta, he popped them into the fryer. What emerged is an authentic St. Louis treat, served at fine restaurants and backyard fish fries alike. Although there are several outposts owned by the Gitto family, Charlie Jr. says, "Let there be no doubt this baby is credited to Charlie Gitto's 'On the Hill.' "
