Though you may feel you've dropped into Krakow unprepared, you don't need to understand Polish to thoroughly immerse yourself. Just let your stomach be your guide and enjoy the array of appetizing dining options available for a fraction of the prices across the East River.
The restaurant Pyza evokes images of Poland's "milk bars," Communist-era eateries that serve up inexpensive, hearty fare in a no-fuss setting. Patrons order (usually in Polish) at a counter, owners Wanda and Krzystof Zawistowski call the dishes to the kitchen through a window, and plates heaping with comfort foods such as potato pancakes, stuffed cabbage, and pork goulash begin arriving. Meals are in the $5 to $7 range and include a glass of fruit punch and ample sides of cucumber and carrot salads, coleslaw, and mashed potatoes topped with chopped dill. Tuck into your plate as the regulars do: Push aside your table's pot of silk chrysanthemums, turn your cafeteria tray toward the corner television, and tune into the latest news from the motherland.
After lunch, satisfy your sweet tooth at one of the numerous local bakeries. Windows beckon with chocolate, cheese, and raisin-filled babki and all manner of desserts dusted with powdered sugar, adorned with fruit, and filled with custards. You could while away the afternoon taste-testing each shop's paczki (pronounced "poonch-key"). These treats, often still warm, are essentially Polish doughnuts filled with raspberry, lemon, or other fruit jelly. At Jubilatka Bakery, where the cost is 65 cents each, try them glazed or powdered.
Greenpoint's delis are also rife with picnic fare and savory souvenirs. The friendly counter staff in red T-shirts and white paper caps at Steve's Meat Market will help you navigate cases of fresh and smoked kielbasa, ham, and pig's feet. When I ask about something for the grill, they offer generous samples of a garlicky, juicy Podhalanska kielbasa ($1.18 a pound), and a smoked, slightly spicy Weselna "wedding" kielbasa ($1.19 a pound). The links exude a powerfully enticing aroma that proves difficult to resist later on the Bolt bus back to Boston.
