Outstanding outdoors

Adventures and venues enough for any activity

October 12, 2008|Shira Springer, Globe Staff

VIDA - Straight ahead, at the start of Marten Rapids on the McKenzie River, an overturned yellow raft bobs between a boulder and downed tree limbs. Attempting to avoid a similar fate, Paul Glowka, our guide, shouts instructions with urgency as he steers our raft into a narrow channel of roiling water on the left: "OK, crew, forward paddle. Crew, backward paddle. Back-ward pad-dle."

My short, flailing strokes make little impact. Bouncing on my seat as our raft bucks along the river, I am soaked, like the six other passengers who signed up for this adventure. Turning around, I see Glowka, a 6-foot-tall, 225-pound, part-time heavy-haul trucker put all his weight and experience into keeping our raft clear of the accident and other hidden dangers.

The 100-yard stretch of Class III rapids is the grand finale of a half-day white-water trip through lush forest that drapes the surrounding Cascade Mountains and drops to the river's edge. Bringing the raft safely back to Helfrich Landing on a pathway of pristine, deep-blue water, Glowka says, "There's a 50-50 factor where you either make it without flipping over or you don't." Whether rafting down the McKenzie for scenery or thrill-seeking, Glowka adds, "people underestimate the river."

Before I explored Eugene and the nearby outdoor playgrounds in the McKenzie River

Valley and along the Oregon coast, I had underestimated the city and the natural charm of the area. In previous visits to the Pacific Northwest, I had seen little reason to venture beyond the casual cosmopolitan cool of Portland. Being tossed about the McKenzie and coastal sand dunes, riding waves in a sea kayak, and running along Pre's Trail changed my thinking.

Located 100 miles south of Portland, Eugene (population 153,690) is a university town with an easy-going, alternative feel. The second-largest city in Oregon offers plenty of paths for cyclists and runners, the Willamette River for inner tubes and canoes, the outdoor Saturday Market for arts and crafts, and Hayward Field, a world-famous track-and-field stadium at the University of Oregon. The compact city center puts most attractions within easy reach by car, bike, or foot. Plus, with the Cascades and McKenzie River Valley less than a two-hour drive east and the coast less than two hours west, Eugene works as a convenient base for outdoor adventures.

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