Wildlife, lush life cohabit in Wyoming's Tetons

October 12, 2008|Victoria Abbott Riccardi, Globe Correspondent

JACKSON, Wyo. - Standing by the Snake River in the hushed dark of morning, I screwed my camera onto my tripod at Schwabacher Landing and tried to focus on the blue-gray snow-capped mountains in the distance. My husband, John, an avid photographer, and I had been up since 4:30 to catch the sunrise over the Teton Range, the youngest of the mountains in the Rocky Mountain system.

This picturesque part of Wyoming is prized for its skiing. The area receives an annual average of 460 inches of snow and Rendezvous Mountain at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort has the country's largest vertical rise (4,139 feet) served by one lift system. Yet, we were not here to ski. We had come to savor the area's wildlife, nature, cuisine, and balmy weather. Around 6:30, my magic moment came when the warm light of dawn spread across the sky, bathing the snowy peaks in pink, orange, yellow, and then gold. Click.

Of all the times to visit the Tetons, the most idyllic season is fall. Spring is muddy and raw, summer teems with tourists - over 3 million of them - and winter freezes over with 30-below-zero temperatures, ice, and snow. Autumn is cool without being cold and has a soft, soulful calmness, as wildlife and nature prepare for winter. The colors become richer and more vibrant as the aspens and mountain maples turn orange-red, providing a warm contrast to the brilliant blue lakes and sky. What's more, hiking, biking, shopping, and dining are at their peak.

"Fall is delicious," says David Brookover, a fine art photographer and owner of the Brookover Gallery in Jackson. "It's the harvest season, and you can feel crispness in the air. The light is heading into the southern quadrant, so it's softer and less harsh than summer. The colors are not so monochromatic either. Instead of green, blues, and grays, you have blue, gray, gold, and red. Nature really puts on a show."

One of the best ways to enjoy the area's physical beauty is to immerse yourself in it. You can fly fish, raft, or even swim in the Snake. At Jackson Hole Mountain Resort you can ride a gondola to the top of the mountain, where you can hike or even paraglide to the bottom. Area outfitters offer bicycles to rent, horseback riding, golf, and hot air ballooning. Then, of course, there is hiking. We spent numerous hours trekking around several scenic spots, including String Lake, Oxbow Bend, and Jenny Lake.

One of the biggest attractions of the Tetons is the wildlife. The area boasts more than 60 species of mammals, including black and grizzly bears, moose, elk, and antelope, and over 100 species of birds, such as the bald eagle, osprey, and trumpeter swan. The best time to spot animals is in September and October when they are out looking for mates.

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