Across Canada, solo: views, deer, and cherry pie

Looking at the map, it was clear what he meant. Canada is the world's second-largest country with a population of more than 33 million, the majority of whom live within 100 miles of the US border. On the map, Canada suddenly seemed remote. I started a list of concerns: running out of gas, being stranded without cellphone coverage, and stumbling into trouble.

To offset my worries I had two rules: Fill the tank at the halfway mark and never drive after dusk. What I didn't anticipate was the sense of security I would feel. Canadians were exceedingly considerate. Wherever I stayed, my room was clean, even immaculate. Drivers were civil. And despite being warned about sleep-inducing stretches of the Trans-Canada Highway, the long drive was rarely dull.

Beginning in Providence, I stayed the first night in Burlington, Vt., and drove the next day to the Canadian capital, Ottawa, by way of Montreal. Ottawa, a clean, diverse, and walkable city, sits on the southern bank of the Ottawa River, the border between Ontario and Quebec.

Parliament Hill, the seat of government, provides one of the best views in the city. A free tour of Parliament's Gothic Revival buildings focused on the country's political history. Ottawa was chosen as the capital, one story goes, to be far enough from the reach of the country's ambitious US neighbors.

That night, I got as far as Deep River, Ontario, a small town built as part of the Manhattan Project in the 1940s, and checked into a roadside motel, an adequate room with few amenities. The no vacancy sign went up after I registered. Canada, they say, has two seasons - winter and construction. For a traveler, that can mean that local lodging is scarce even in rural areas. It's prudent to reserve a room whenever possible.