European canal journeys fit for king

September 21, 2008|Emilie C. Harting, Globe Correspondent

Yearning to take a European river cruise, but afraid of being cooped up on the boat? Consider luxury barging, once the preferred getaway for royal families.

Barging is different from river cruising, but can be just as luxurious. On a barge, passengers have the option of walking or biking on the towpaths while the boat moves along the canal; on a river cruise they can only get off the vessel when it is docked. Barges carry bikes; river cruises do not. Also, most barges carry from six to 20 passengers, while river cruises often have more than a hundred.

Since barges travel on canals rather than rivers most of the time, they journey into more remote countryside. On these routes, the calls of birds, the grasses swaying in the wind, and the waves lapping the side of the boat can be the only sounds.

A luxury barge is a floating hotel with an experienced chef who cooks the meals, purchasing fresh meat, fish, vegetables, and fruit from purveyors along the way. Some have themed trips such as golf, wine, family, art, cycling, and antiques. Most have minibuses that take guests on daily excursions to villages, vineyards, castles, chateaus, archeological sites, and artisans' shops.

Barge trips usually start in cities such as Dublin, London, Paris, or Amsterdam. Guests go by van or train to the locks, and are returned to the starting city.

The season for most barge trips is April to October. However, spring and fall are the favorite seasons in countries where it is hot in summer.

Luxury barges are represented by a number of brokers and travel companies: Abercrombie & Kent, Barge Connection, The Barge Company, Barges in France, Barges in Germany, European Waterways, Go Barging, Lynott Tours, Special Places, and many others.

Prices range from $2,850 to $6,795 per person or $19,000 to $54,000 for a whole boat for a week's cruise. However, check discounted rates for early and late seasons, for booking more than one cabin, and for children.

Adrienne is one of five barges run by French Country Waterways, an American firm that has English-speaking crews on a number of routes in France. The Adrienne often travels north and south in the Upper Loire Valley, from Châtillon-sur-Loire to Nemours and back on the Briare Canal. The boat crosses over the Loire River on an aqueduct designed by Gustave Eiffel, and moors one night at Rogny-les-Sept-Ecluses below a historic staircase of locks used from 1642 to 1887.

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