A castle in Marblehead truly fit for a Viking

While castle keepers are admittedly few these days, it's hard to imagine that there could be a more enthusiastic or congenial 21st-century one than Michael Rubino, who lives with his wife, Chris, in the castle proper, and rents the adjoining carriage house as a single-unit B&B.

The stone carriage house, with its Gothic, arched windows and doors and copper-clad dome, is accessible through a narrow stone archway that connects it to the main castle. Between the two buildings is a cozy courtyard filled with plants and gargoyles standing or sitting in random spots throughout the garden. The verdant courtyard is part of the suite, and we enjoyed our continental breakfast there at a wrought iron table shaded by an umbrella. It was wonderfully private and surprisingly quiet.

Our hosts were friendly but respectful of our privacy. When we arrived, Michael recommended a place for dinner and told us the best time to see lobstermen heading out to sea or returning from their day's work. At breakfast Chris stopped by to say hello and explain her Darwinian approach to gardening: She picks up pitiful-looking plants in the most unlikely places, plops them in her garden, and challenges them to survive.

Entrance to the two-level suite is through a 200-pound solid oak door. The downstairs consisted of a sitting area, small bath, and galley kitchen. A comfortable couch faced a gas fireplace. The wall behind the couch was hung with a carpet in rich colors. In front of the stained-glass window was a brightly painted carousel horse, one of many we would see in the carriage house and, later, in the castle itself. Leaded glass lamps in deep reds, golds, and greens added to the medieval atmosphere.

The bath was tiny but immaculate, with a small sink, medicine cabinet, and shower stall, though without a hair dryer.

The kitchen was well stocked with cookies, crackers, cereal, and fruit, along with dishes, glasses, and stemware. The refrigerator held soda, milk, yogurt, orange juice, and bottled water.