The true test of the threesome's readiness comes this week, when the gates are flung open at Saratoga Race Course and tourists arrive in droves. Every year, the six-week horse racing season turns this laid back, new-age hippy and college town (Skidmore College is up the road) into a bustling equine-centric resort. Affluent residents rent their homes to the wealthy horsy set and flee. The energy is palpable, the parking a nightmare, and restaurant lines barely tolerable, but it's the fun and idyllic surroundings, paired with good food and shopping, that keep visitors coming every year.
Three hours from Boston, Saratoga Springs was originally a playground for New York's well-to-do and those seeking the cure from the local mineral waters. (Natural springs still bubble from the earth in various spots around town.) While the region offers performing arts, museums, historic battle sites, and hiking in the nearby Adirondacks, it's the racing, dating from 1863, that keeps Saratoga firmly on the map. This year's season runs from today through Sept. 1 and culminates with the $1 million Travers Stakes on Aug. 23.
Max London is bracing for the onslaught with a well-rehearsed staff and a menu that has "something for everybody," he says. A pleasing selection of daily specials, including fresh fish, salads, and a mixed grill, reflect the chef's interest in cooking with seasonal and local ingredients.
He explains that his menu was inspired on a tour around Barcelona and Naples a few years ago. His signature tapas include tender chickpea-polenta fries, blue-cheese stuffed dates wrapped in Serrano ham, garlicky shrimp with smoked paprika, and mussels with chorizo and white wine. The idea is that diners assemble a multicourse meal of small dishes.
Pizzas are baked in a wood-fired oven and boast a crisp, chewy, and tender crust. Mozzarella is made in-house and the dough is fashioned after something London sampled in Naples.
