Maine draws: bay, wine, lazing, lobster

July 06, 2008|Patricia Harris and David Lyon, Globe Correspondents

LINCOLNVILLE, Maine - With its short sweep of brown sand and tumbled stones between forbidding blocks of granite, Lincolnville Beach looks at first glance like a strand that only a Mainer could love.

That's assuming travelers notice it at all as they speed through on Route 1 from Camden on their way to Bar Harbor. In truth, this little Penobscot Bay cove is the perfect quiet getaway hiding in plain sight.

With all the planning and packing, weekend escapes sometimes get out of hand, but Lincolnville, just under 200 miles from Boston, reduces everything to the basics: a beach, an inn with rockers on the front porch, and a lobster pound. There aren't a lot of choices to make. Although Lincolnville has several motels and other lodgings, there's only one inn directly across the street from the beach.

This is Grant Lippman's first year running the Spouter Inn more or less on his own (his mother, Cathy Lippman, can't seem to stay away from the gardens). He's had a long apprenticeship since the Lippmans restored this 1832 house back in the 1980s and converted it into a bed-and-breakfast. Grant's father, Paul, is a proficient woodworker and sometime boatbuilder, and the beautifully joined and spar-varnished cabinets throughout the inn attest to his skills. His workmanship dovetails nicely with a variety of antique furnishings to strike the perfect blend of Maine farmhouse and nautical inn.

Looking to economize, we took the smallest of the inn's rooms, the Fo'c'sle, where Paul Lippman's cabinets in the small bathroom didn't seem at all incongruous with the room's Victorian dark walnut furniture.

Besides, we knew we weren't going to spend that much waking time up on the second floor, even with our great view of the sea. As soon as we checked in, we made a beeline to Cellardoor Vineyards in Lincolnville, the state's first farm winery. After a decade of harvests, the vines have matured sufficiently to produce some pleasant quaffing wine, especially the riesling and a vidal blanc that goes by the name "Vino DiVine." With crisp acidity and just off-sweet fruitiness, the vidal proved a perfect wine to sip during the evening when we rocked on the front porch and watched the island of Islesboro (just three miles across a narrow strait) appear and disappear in the fog. We weren't the first to rock and sip, rock and sip. The Spouter Inn has a guest refrigerator beneath a cabinet full of wine glasses and assorted corkscrews.

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